Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page ivPraise for Tony Aspler

    “Everyone learns about wine in his or her own way. Tony’s way has

    been…extremely human; richly mixed with real life, literary life, incident

    and accident in some unexpected parts of the world . . Tony Aspler is

    one of the frankest and funniest…”

    — Hugh Johnson

    “It’s always a happy circumstance when somebody who knows a subject

    can also bring that expertise alive with good writing.”

    — Ottawa Citizen

    “[Tony Aspler] is the wine expert’s Canadian wine expert. Aspler is the

    drinking companion we’d all like to invite ‘down to the cellar’.”

    — Eye Weekly (Toronto)

    Praise for Vintage Canada

    “. . a masterful cross-Canada survey of wineries . . .”

    — The Toronto Sun

    “. . Superb.”

    — The Montreal Gazette

    Praise for Tony Aspler’s Wine

    Lover’s Companion

    “Outstanding! . . 37 years as a wine judge and I learned something new

    in each chapter.”

    — David G. Male, President, InterVin International

    “Only a handful of writers . . combine authoritative knowledge . . with

    an easy-reading, fluid style. Tony Aspler is one of them. The Wine Lover’s

    Companion makes for delightful reading, and yet is an authentic wine

    reference. Well done!”

    — Ed McCarthy, Wine For Dummies?

    “. . full of information that presupposed nothing, and explains simply,without pretension.”

    — The Globe and Mail

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page iiiCanadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page ivby Tony Aspler

    and Barbara Leslie

    Canadian

    Wine

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page vCanadian Wine For Dummies?

    Published by

    John Wiley Sons Canada, Ltd.

    6045 Freemont Boulevard

    Mississauga, Ontario, L5R 4J3

    www.wiley.com

    Copyright ? 2000 by John Wiley Sons Canada, Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this book, including interior design,cover design, and icons, may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, record-

    ing, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the publisher.

    Canadian Cataloguing in Publication Data

    Aspler, Tony, 1939–

    Canadian wine for dummies

    Includes index.

    ISBN: 1-894413-18-0

    1. Wine industry — Canada — History. 2. Wineries — Canada. 3. Wine and wine making — Canada.

    I. Leslie, Barbara. II. Title.

    TP559.C3A855 2000 338.4’76332’00971 C00-932603-0

    Printed in Canada

    1 2 3 4 5 TRI 04 03 02 01 00

    Distributed in Canada by John Wiley Sons Canada, Ltd.

    For general information on John Wiley Sons Canada, Ltd, including all books pulished by Wiley Publishing, Inc., please

    call our distribution center, Tel 1-800-567-4797. For reseller information, including discounts and premium sales, please

    call our Sales department, Tel 416-646-7992. For press review copies, author interviews, or other publicity information,please contact our marketing department, Tel 416-646-4584, Fax 416-236-4448.

    For authorization to photocopy items for corporate, personal, or educational use, please contact in writing The Canadian

    Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright license visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call

    toll free, 1-800-893-5777.

    LIMIT OF LIABILITYDISCLAIMER OFWARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND AUTHOR HAVE USED THEIR BEST EFFORTS

    IN PREPARING THIS BOOK. THE PUBLISHER AND AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH

    RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM

    ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. THERE ARE NO

    WARRANTIESWHICH EXTEND BEYOND THE DESCRIPTIONS CONTAINED IN THIS PARAGRAPH. NOWARRANTY MAY

    BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES REPRESENTATIVES OR WRITTEN SALES MATERIALS. THE ACCURACY AND

    COMPLETENESS OF THE INFORMATION PROVIDED HEREIN AND THE OPINIONS STATED HEREIN ARE NOT

    GUARANTEED OR WARRANTED TO PRODUCE ANY PARTICULAR RESULTS, AND THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES

    CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY INDIVIDUAL. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR AUTHOR SHALL

    BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOSS OF PROFIT OR ANY OTHER COMMERCIAL DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO

    SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, CONSEQUENTIAL, OR OTHER DAMAGES.

    Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, Dummies Man, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The

    Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related trade dress are registered trademarks

    or trademarks of John Wiley Sons, Inc., in the United States, Canada and other countries, and may not be used without

    written permission. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not

    associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page viAbout the Authors

    Tony Aspler is the most widely read wine writer in Canada. He is recognized

    as the leading authority on Canadian wines and is the creator of the annual

    Air Ontario Wine Awards competition. Author of Travels with My Corkscrew,Vintage Canada, Tony Aspler’s Wine Lover’s Companion, and many other

    books on wine and food, Tony is the wine columnist for the Toronto Star. He

    has also published nine novels, including a series of wine lover’s mysteries

    featuring wine writer-detective Ezra Brant.

    Tony is on the advisory board of Masters of Wine (North America) and is

    co-founder of the charitable foundation Grapes for Humanity.

    Barbara Leslie lucked into one of the world’s greatest jobs working for

    Winetidings, Canada’s oldest continually published wine magazine. Over the

    course of a 15-year career with the magazine, she did just about everything

    from tasting wine, to writing and editing, to typesetting and layout. When

    she retired from the Winetidings staff in 1999, she held the title of publisher.

    Barbara is currently pursuing her freelance career in the Niagara Peninsula,where she lives around the corner from of some of Canada’s greatest

    wineries.

    Barbara grew up in Montréal and studied at McGill University, where she

    majored in Italian. This was quite helpful when she guided a group of wine

    lovers through the vineyards of northern Italy on behalf of the Opimian

    Society. She has also led a number of tastings and introductory wine

    seminars, albeit in English and French. She has yet to lead one in Italian,but she’s working on it!

    Barbara has known and worked with Tony Aspler for many years. She

    shares both Tony’s appreciation of wine and his affection for cats.

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page viiCanadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page viiiDedication

    Tony Aspler dedicates this book to his friend and colleague Jacques Marie,whose love of wine has communicated itself to thousands of Canadians

    over some 30 years of education.

    Barbara Leslie dedicates this book to Mike Blakely, her son and arbiter of

    good taste.

    Authors’ Acknowledgements

    Writing a wine book of this nature is a co-operative effort. We did not simply

    sit in front of our word processors and bash it all out from memory. We relied

    on the expertise, experience, and good nature of dozens of people in all areas

    of Canadian wine — from the winemakers themselves to the organizations

    and institutions that support them, the liquor boards who purvey their

    products, and the hospitality industry that serves Canadian wines in their

    restaurants.

    Special thanks to the Wine Council of Ontario, who patiently answered all

    our inquiries, in spite of our endless requests for background on the newest

    wineries right up to press time, as we strove to keep the information as fresh

    and lively as the wines it represents. Thanks to VQA Canada, and both its

    arms in British Columbia and Ontario for their generous help whenever we

    asked — which was frequently. We would be remiss if we did not single out

    certain individuals who gave freely of their time and advice: Dave Gamble,PublisherEditor of BC Wine Trails, wine writers Tim Pawsey in Vancouver

    and Linda Bramble in St. Catharines, Ontario.

    Once we had the raw data, we had to put it into a unique form, unlike any

    other wine book we had written. Guiding us through the technique and the

    technology were Joan Whitman and Melanie Rutledge at CDG Books in

    Toronto. They kept us in the information highway’s fast lane in spite of

    ourselves. Thank you both for your support and for having the vision to

    see that this was a book that would introduce a whole new generation to

    the fascinating world of Canadian wine.

    We would also like to thank our agent, Dean Cooke, of Livingston Cooke,who cosseted us through the project and showed us there was light at the

    end of the information tunnel.

    Lastly, we’d like to thank you for buying this book. It may not be the only

    wine book you will ever purchase, but it will be the only one that gives you

    a comprehensive view of Canadian wine, the people who make it, and its

    place in the global scheme of things. Cheers!

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page ixPublisher’s Acknowledgments

    We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments at canadapt@wiley.com. Some of the

    people who helped bring this book to market include the following:

    Acquisitions and Editorial

    Editorial Director: Joan Whitman

    Associate Editor: Melanie Rutledge

    Assistant Editor: Kim Herter

    Copy Editor: Pamela Erlichman

    Editorial Assistant: Stella Partheniou

    Production

    Director of Production: Donna Brown

    Production Editor: Rebecca Conolly

    Layout and Graphics: Kim Monteforte,Heidy Lawrance Associates; Shelley

    Norris; Brent Savage; Rashell Smith

    Special Art: Jane Whitney (cartographer)

    Proofreader: Kelli Howey

    Indexer: Belle Wong

    Special Help

    Amy Black, Michael Kelly

    John Wiley Sons Canada, Ltd.

    Bill Zerter, Chief Operating Of?cer

    Jennifer Smith, Publisher, Professional and Trade Division

    Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies

    Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies

    Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies

    Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies

    Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel

    Suzanne Jannetta, Editorial Director, Travel

    Publishing Technology for Dummies

    Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies TechnologyGeneral User

    Composition Services

    Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services

    Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page xContents at a Glance

    Introduction .................................................................1

    Part I: What Is Wine? ...................................................5

    Chapter 1: What Makes a Wine.........................................................................................7

    Chapter 2: Wine in Its Elements......................................................................................17

    Chapter 3: Getting to Know Your Berry.........................................................................25

    Chapter 4: In the Vineyard ..............................................................................................35

    Part II: Appreciating Wine ..........................................51

    Chapter 5: Sensing Good Wine........................................................................................53

    Chapter 6: Pleasing Your Palate......................................................................................65

    Chapter 7: Judging the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly ...................................................75

    Chapter 8: Sharing Good Taste .......................................................................................85

    Part III: Enjoying Wine ...............................................97

    Chapter 9: Wine in Restaurants ......................................................................................99

    Chapter 10: At Home with Wine ...................................................................................109

    Chapter 11: Buying for Keeping....................................................................................123

    Part IV: Wine and Food.............................................141

    Chapter 12: The Marriage of Wine and Food ..............................................................143

    Chapter 13: Wine and Cheese .......................................................................................163

    Chapter 14: Planning Your Wine Matches ...................................................................173

    Chapter 15: Cooking with Wine ....................................................................................189

    Chapter 16: Icewine: Canada’s Icing on the Cake .......................................................195

    Part V: Wineries across Canada .................................203

    Chapter 17: The Origins of Canadian Wine .................................................................205

    Chapter 18: Ontario Wineries .......................................................................................229

    Chapter 19: British Columbia Wineries .......................................................................263

    Chapter 20: Québec and Atlantic Province Wineries.................................................295

    Chapter 21: Fruit Wineries ............................................................................................313

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page xiPart VI: The Part of Tens ...........................................323

    Chapter 22: Ten Frequently Asked Questions About Wine.......................................325

    Chapter 23: Ten Ontario Winemakers to Watch .........................................................333

    Chapter 24: Ten British Columbia Winemakers to Watch .........................................337

    Part VII: Appendixes .................................................341

    Appendix A: Glossary ....................................................................................................343

    Appendix B: Directory of Canadian Wineries .............................................................353

    Appendix C: Coolers Corkscrews .............................................................................365

    Appendix D: Canadian Highlights of the Vintners Quality Alliance

    (VQA) National Wine Standard...................................................................................369

    Index .......................................................................379

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:25 PM Page xiipage 141

    page 341

    page 97

    page 323

    page 203

    page 5

    page 51 Fax: 978-546-7747

    E-mail: richtennant@the5thwave.com

    World Wide Web: www.the5thwave.com

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xiiiCanadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xiv

    Introduction..................................................................1

    How to Use This Book ....................................................................................2

    Part I: What Is Wine? .............................................................................2

    Part II: Appreciating Wine ....................................................................3

    Part III: Enjoying Wine ...........................................................................3

    Part IV: Wine and Food .........................................................................3

    Part V: Wineries across Canada ...........................................................3

    Part VI: The Part of Tens ......................................................................3

    Part VII: Appendixes ..............................................................................4

    Icons Used in This Book .................................................................................4

    Part I: What Is Wine?....................................................5

    Chapter 1: What Makes a Wine . . . . . . . .7

    Understanding What Wine Is .........................................................................7

    Winemaking Basics .........................................................................................8

    The importance of air ...........................................................................9

    The grape’s goodness ...........................................................................9

    A fascination for thousands of years ................................................10

    A widespread appeal ...........................................................................11

    An astonishing array of colours and sizes .......................................11

    A knockout combination: Sugar and acid ........................................11

    Setting the Standards ..........................................................................11

    Canada’s designated viticultural areas .............................................13

    VQA regulations ...................................................................................14

    Chapter 2: Wine in Its Elements . . . . . . . .17

    Breaking It Down: Wine’s Key Ingredients .................................................17

    Where’s the fruit? ................................................................................18

    What’s so good about acid? ...............................................................19

    What’s the degree of alcohol? ............................................................19

    What use are tannins? .........................................................................20

    What’s this ?fth element of wine? .....................................................21

    Deciphering a Canadian Wine Label ...........................................................22

    Chapter 3: Getting to Know Your Berry . . . . . . .25

    Looking Closely at the Grape .......................................................................25

    Life Preservers for Wine: Tannins to the Rescue! .....................................26

    Contrasting Reds and Whites ......................................................................27

    Macerating makes the difference ......................................................27

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xvWhite wines don’t macerate ..............................................................28

    Drinking red wine in its youth ...........................................................28

    Exploring the Variety of the Grape World ..................................................31

    Labelling for Variety ......................................................................................33

    Chapter 4: In the Vineyard . . . . . . . . .35

    All Grapes Are Not Created Equal ...............................................................35

    Where Wine Grapes Grow — And How! .....................................................36

    Why vines should struggle .................................................................37

    How grapes get sweet .........................................................................38

    The cool connection ...........................................................................39

    A History of Mediocrity ................................................................................41

    A Year in a Canadian Vineyard ....................................................................41

    Weathering the Vintage ................................................................................44

    Frost warnings .....................................................................................45

    Singing in the sunshine .......................................................................45

    Crying in the rain .................................................................................46

    Harsh lessons .......................................................................................46

    The Education Advantage ............................................................................47

    Part II: Appreciating Wine...........................................51

    Chapter 5: Sensing Good Wine . . . . . . . .53

    Visual Basics ..................................................................................................53

    Judging colour .....................................................................................54

    Looking at whites ................................................................................55

    Seeing red .............................................................................................56

    Checking out those legs! .....................................................................56

    Sending wines back: Five unsightly reasons to do so .....................57

    Nuancing the Nose ........................................................................................58

    Getting swirling again (it’s worth it) .................................................59

    Finding the right partners ..................................................................60

    Smelling something ?shy: Avoiding bad wine days ........................61

    Bottle stink and other problems .......................................................61

    Oxidation ..............................................................................................62

    Corkiness ..............................................................................................62

    More stinky reasons for sending wines back ...................................62

    Chapter 6: Pleasing Your Palate . . . . . . . .65

    Getting to Know Your Tongue ......................................................................65

    Putting Your Palate to the Test ....................................................................66

    Comparing whites ...............................................................................67

    That glowing colour ............................................................................67

    Those revealing legs ...........................................................................68

    The nose knows ...................................................................................68

    The proving of your palate .................................................................69

    Comparing reds ...................................................................................70

    Canadian Wine For Dummies xvi

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xviChapter 7: Judging the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly . . . . .75

    Describing How Wines Taste .......................................................................75

    Scoring Wine by Number .............................................................................77

    Your basic tasting sheet .....................................................................77

    The write words ...................................................................................80

    Appearance ..........................................................................................80

    Bouquet ................................................................................................80

    Taste ......................................................................................................83

    Chapter 8: Sharing Good Taste . . . . . . . .85

    Organizing a Tasting .....................................................................................85

    Striking the right mood .......................................................................86

    Setting the scene .................................................................................86

    Tasting in Private ..........................................................................................88

    Intimate encounters ............................................................................88

    Crowd scenes .......................................................................................91

    Dinner parties ......................................................................................91

    Tasting in Public ............................................................................................92

    Cruising the best wines ......................................................................92

    Getting the right answers ...................................................................94

    Part III: Enjoying Wine................................................97

    Chapter 9: Wine in Restaurants . . . . . . . .99

    Getting to Know the House Wine ................................................................99

    Reading a Wine List .....................................................................................101

    Pick the perfect wine ........................................................................102

    Remember weight and acidity .........................................................103

    Weight .................................................................................................103

    Acidity .................................................................................................103

    Consider how it’s cooked .................................................................103

    Ordering Wine ..............................................................................................104

    Sending Wine Back ......................................................................................105

    Real-Life Wine Experiences ........................................................................106

    The wrong way ...................................................................................106

    The right way .....................................................................................107

    Wines for Vegetarians .................................................................................108

    White Wine as an Apéritif ...........................................................................108

    Chapter 10: At Home with Wine . . . . . . . .109

    Wine Buyer Beware .....................................................................................109

    Bringing Home the Wine .............................................................................110

    Handling reds .....................................................................................110

    Handling whites and rosés ...............................................................111

    Cork Procedures ..........................................................................................111

    Choosing a corkscrew .......................................................................112

    xvii

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xviiCanadian Wine For Dummies xviii

    Uncorking the bottle .........................................................................116

    After you’ve opened the bottle ........................................................117

    To air is divine ...................................................................................118

    What a Difference a Glass Makes ..............................................................118

    A glass for red ....................................................................................119

    A glass for white ................................................................................119

    A glass for champagne and sparkling wines ..................................120

    Chapter 11: Buying for Keeping . . . . . . . .123

    Storing Your Wines ......................................................................................123

    Choosing the Best Cellar Site ....................................................................125

    No basement? No worries! ...............................................................126

    Setting up your cellar ........................................................................127

    Cataloguing Your Wines .............................................................................128

    Collecting a Canadian Cellar ......................................................................130

    24 bottles of wine on your wall ........................................................131

    Preparing for future consumption ...................................................132

    Buying Wine in Canada ...............................................................................133

    The liquor monopolies .....................................................................134

    Catalogue shopping ..........................................................................135

    Private orders ....................................................................................136

    Personal importation ........................................................................136

    Privatized wine shops .......................................................................136

    Auctions ..............................................................................................137

    Independent wine stores ..................................................................137

    The Internet ........................................................................................138

    Purchasing wine on-line from Ontario wineries ............................138

    Purchasing wine on-line from B.C. wineries ...................................139

    Purchasing wine on-line from wine agents .....................................139

    Purchasing wine on-line from your provincial liquor board ........139

    Part IV: Wine and Food..............................................141

    Chapter 12: The Marriage of Wine and Food . . . . .143

    Planning a Wine and Food Wedding ..........................................................143

    Grape Expectations .....................................................................................145

    Chardonnay ........................................................................................145

    Chenin Blanc ......................................................................................146

    Gewürztraminer .................................................................................147

    Icewine ................................................................................................148

    Muscat ................................................................................................148

    Pinot Blanc .........................................................................................149

    Pinot Gris ............................................................................................150

    Riesling ...............................................................................................150

    Sauvignon Blanc ................................................................................152

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xviiixix

    Cabernet Franc ..................................................................................153

    Cabernet Sauvignon ..........................................................................153

    Gamay .................................................................................................154

    Merlot ..................................................................................................155

    Nebbiolo .............................................................................................156

    Pinot Noir ...........................................................................................156

    Sangiovese ..........................................................................................157

    SyrahShiraz .......................................................................................158

    Tempranillo ........................................................................................159

    Zinfandel .............................................................................................159

    Don’t Forget the Forti?eds .........................................................................160

    Sherry: Any Palomino is a pal of mine ............................................160

    Port: Overturning the tradition .......................................................161

    Ruby ports (bottle-aged) ..................................................................162

    Tawny ports (cask-aged) ..................................................................162

    Chapter 13: Wine and Cheese . . . . . . . .163

    The Perfect Match .......................................................................................163

    Types of cheese .................................................................................164

    How cheese is made ..........................................................................164

    Classifying Cheeses .....................................................................................166

    Matching Canadian Wines and Cheeses ...................................................167

    Matching International Wines and Cheeses ............................................170

    Chapter 14: Planning Your Wine Matches . . . . . .173

    Zeroing In On the Right Wine .....................................................................173

    Asking Two Easy Questions .......................................................................174

    Matching Dish by Dish ................................................................................175

    Matching wine and soup ..................................................................176

    Matching wine and ?sh .....................................................................178

    Matching wine and beef ....................................................................180

    Matching wine and pork ...................................................................180

    Matching wine and lamb ..................................................................182

    Life Is Short: Start with Dessert ................................................................183

    Facing Up to the Big No-No: Wine and Chocolate ...................................185

    What about Nuts? ........................................................................................187

    Chapter 15: Cooking with Wine . . . . . . . .189

    Why Cook with Wine? .................................................................................189

    What Wine to Use in the Kitchen ..............................................................191

    Where to start ....................................................................................191

    How much wine to use ......................................................................192

    Going Back to (Cooking) School ................................................................193

    The Wine Country Cooking School at Strewn ................................193

    The Cooking School at Hainle Vineyards .......................................194

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xixChapter 16: Icewine: Canada’s Icing on the Cake . . . . .195

    What Exactly Is Icewine? ............................................................................195

    Where Icewine comes from ..............................................................196

    How Icewine is made ........................................................................196

    Canadian Content: Icewine in Canada ......................................................197

    The Vidal grape ..................................................................................198

    The Riesling grape .............................................................................198

    The parade of awards .......................................................................199

    Savouring Icewine .......................................................................................200

    Matching Icewine with food .............................................................200

    Laying down Icewine .........................................................................201

    Part V: Wineries across Canada..................................203

    Chapter 17: The Origins of Canadian Wine . . . . . .205

    The First 700 Years: 1000 to 1700 ..............................................................205

    Jacques Cartier and the French tradition: 1535 ............................207

    Crossbred resistance and the American in?uence: 1619 .............207

    Potential in Ontario: 1800 to 1866 .............................................................209

    First international recognition .........................................................209

    Niagara developments ......................................................................210

    Ontario’s Potential Realized: 1866 to 1900 ...............................................211

    Temperance in a teacup ...................................................................212

    The birth of the liquor boards .........................................................214

    Post-Prohibition days .......................................................................216

    A Brights spot during the Depression ............................................217

    Changing styles in the postwar years .............................................218

    The daffy world of Baby Duck .........................................................219

    The invasion of the imports .............................................................220

    Beginnings in British Columbia: 1920 .......................................................222

    Tried, tested, and true ......................................................................222

    An apple a day couldn’t keep creditors at bay ..............................223

    Winds of change ................................................................................223

    With a little help from the legislature .............................................224

    Québec’s Story begins in 1870 ...................................................................226

    Experimentation in Nova Scotia: 1913 ......................................................227

    Chapter 18: Ontario Wineries . . . . . . . .229

    Between a Rock and a Wet Place ...............................................................230

    Niagara Bench Wineries .............................................................................232

    Mainly on the Plain .....................................................................................245

    Niagara-on-the-Lake Wineries ....................................................................245

    Canada’s Deep South ..................................................................................256

    Lake Erie North Shore Wineries ................................................................256

    Urban Cork?tters ........................................................................................258

    Toronto (GTA) and North of Toronto Wineries .......................................259

    Canadian Wine For Dummies xx xx

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xxChapter 19: British Columbia Wineries . . . . . . .263

    North of the Border, Down Okanagan Way ..............................................263

    Okanagan Valley Wineries ..........................................................................265

    Over the Hill, Not Too Far Away ................................................................286

    Similkameen Valley Wineries .....................................................................286

    A Gentle Style of Wine ................................................................................287

    Greater Vancouver and Fraser Valley Wineries .......................................287

    New Kids on the Block ................................................................................289

    Vancouver Island Wineries .........................................................................289

    Chapter 20: Québec and Atlantic Province Wineries . . . .295

    Québec Wineries: And They Said It Couldn’t Be Done! ..........................296

    Eastern Townships Wineries .....................................................................297

    Montérégie Wineries ...................................................................................302

    Québec City and Other Wineries ...............................................................306

    Atlantic Province Wineries: Not a Fish Story ..........................................309

    Annapolis Valley Wineries ..........................................................................310

    Chapter 21: Fruit Wineries . . . . . . . . .313

    A Fruity Phenomenon .................................................................................313

    Which Fruit Where ......................................................................................315

    Ontario Fruit Wineries ................................................................................315

    British Columbia Fruit Wineries ................................................................319

    Nova Scotia Fruit Wineries .........................................................................320

    Part VI: The Part of Tens ............................................323

    Chapter 22: Ten Frequently Asked Questions about Wine . . .325

    Where Do I Start If I Want to Get into Wine? ............................................325

    Why Are Some Wines More Deeply Coloured Than Others? .................326

    What is a vintage wine? ....................................................................326

    What Wine Should I Bring to a Dinner Party? ..........................................327

    How Can I Tell When Wine Is Ready to Drink? ........................................328

    How Can I Tell When a Wine Is “Off”? .......................................................328

    How Long Can I Keep a Bottle of Wine after I’ve Opened It? .................329

    Why Do I React Badly When I Drink a Certain Wine? .............................329

    Which Region of Canada Produces the Best Wines? ..............................330

    How Do Canadian Wines Compare to Those of Other Countries? ........331

    Chapter 23: Ten Ontario Winemakers to Watch . . . . .333

    Marcus Ansems: Creekside Estate Winery and Habitant

    Vineyards, N.S. .........................................................................................333

    Derek Barnett: Southbrook Farm Winery .............................................333

    Pierre-Jean Bosc: Chateau des Charmes ..................................................334

    Ray Cornell: Hernder Estates Winery .......................................................334

    Philip Dowell: Inniskillin Wines .................................................................334

    xxi

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xxiRon Giesbrecht: Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery .......................334

    J-L Groux: Hillebrand Estates Winery .......................................................334

    Brian Schmidt: Vineland Estates ...............................................................335

    Ann Sperling: Malivoire Wine Company ...................................................335

    Jim Warren: Daniel Lenko Estate Winery and Nesher Wines .................335

    Chapter 24: Ten British Columbia Winemakers to Watch . . .337

    Olivier Combret: Domaine Combret .........................................................337

    Roger Dosman: Alderlea Vineyards ..........................................................337

    Bill Dyer: Burrowing Owl Vineyards .........................................................337

    Ian Mavety: Blue Mountain Vineyard Cellars .......................................338

    Alex Nichol: Nichol Vineyard Farm Winery ..........................................338

    Bruce Nicholson: Vincor Jackson-Triggs Vintners ................................338

    Sandra Old?eld: Tinhorn Creek .................................................................338

    Howard Soon: Calona Vineyards ...............................................................339

    Frank Supernak: Hester Creek Estate Winery ..........................................339

    Erik von Krosigk: Hillside Estate Winery, Pinot Reach Cellars,Red Rooster Winery, Saturna Vineyard ................................................339

    Part VII: Appendixes .................................................341

    Appendix A: Glossary . . . . . . . . .343

    Appendix B: Directory of Canadian Wineries . . . . .353

    Ontario ..........................................................................................................353

    Niagara Bench wineries ....................................................................353

    Niagara-on-the-Lake wineries ...........................................................354

    Lake Erie North Shore wineries .......................................................355

    TorontoGTA wineries .......................................................................355

    Other areas .........................................................................................356

    British Columbia .........................................................................................356

    Okanagan Valley wineries .................................................................356

    Similkameen Valley wineries ............................................................358

    Greater Vancouver and Fraser Valley wineries .............................359

    Vancouver Island wineries ...............................................................359

    Québec ..........................................................................................................359

    Eastern Townships wineries ............................................................359

    Montérégie wineries ..........................................................................360

    Québec City and other wineries ......................................................361

    Other Areas ........................................................................................361

    Nova Scotia ..................................................................................................361

    Annapolis Valley wineries .................................................................361

    Prince Edward Island ..................................................................................361

    Canadian Wine For Dummies xxii

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xxiixxiii

    Fruit wineries ...............................................................................................362

    Ontario ................................................................................................362

    British Columbia ................................................................................362

    Nova Scotia ........................................................................................362

    Newfoundland ....................................................................................363

    Useful Web sites for more wine information ...........................................363

    Appendix C: Coolers Corkscrews . . . . . . .365

    Wine accessories .........................................................................................365

    Wine magazines (English) ..........................................................................366

    Wine magazines (French) ...........................................................................367

    Computer software: Cellar programs .......................................................367

    Catalogue shopping for wine .....................................................................367

    Manitoba .............................................................................................367

    Ontario ...............................................................................................367

    Québec ...............................................................................................367

    Appendix D: Highlights of the Vintners Quality Alliance

    (VQA) National Wine Standard . . . . . . . .369

    Mission Statement .......................................................................................369

    Geographical Indications (G.I.) ................................................................369

    Provincial areas .................................................................................369

    Viticultural areas ..............................................................................370

    Vineyard Designation ..................................................................................370

    Estate Bottled Declaration .........................................................................371

    Wine Categories ...........................................................................................371

    Labelling .......................................................................................................373

    Varietal wines .....................................................................................374

    Blended wines (proprietary names) ...............................................374

    Vintage dating ...................................................................................374

    Foreign geographical indications ....................................................375

    Synonyms ...........................................................................................375

    Addition of water ...............................................................................375

    Chaptalization ....................................................................................375

    Sweet reserve .....................................................................................375

    Certi?cation process .........................................................................376

    Label approval ...................................................................................376

    Tastingevaluation panel — composition ......................................376

    Packaging ............................................................................................376

    VQA label declaration .......................................................................376

    Maintenance of This Standard ...................................................................377

    Establishment of New Provincial Authorities ..........................................377

    Index........................................................................379

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xxiiiCanadian Wine For Dummies xxiv

    Canadian Wine?Prelims-p.i-xxiv:Canadian Wine?Prelimsp.i-xxiv 62409 2:26 PM Page xxivIntroduction

    Wine is more than the sum of its grapes. Wine has inspired poets to write

    sonnets, musicians to compose symphonies, and lovers to propose

    marriage. A bottle of wine can turn a simple dinner into a night to remember—

    but two nights later, that very same wine makes you wonder why you thought

    it was so special in the first place. What happened? Where did the magic go?

    That’s one of wine’s mysteries. Well, we demystify wine for you in this book,and tell you a lot more about it besides, including how to hold on to the

    romance of that first night’s dinner. With a little bit of knowledge, you need

    never be disappointed in your wine again.

    To uncork many of the things you need to know, we take a look around wine

    country — no, not in France, not in Italy, not even in California — we find just

    about everything we need to know here at home, in Canada.

    “Only in Canada?” you ask, disbelieving. Well, not entirely. There are lots of

    countries around the world that have made wine for centuries. Canada has

    only just woken up to the fact that it’s possible to make really great wine here.

    But that’s what makes it exciting. We show you what Canadian winemakers

    are doing now, and how, over the course of about 30 years, they’ve changed

    “no class” wines into “world-class” award-winning ones.

    So, take a step with us into the world according to Canadian wine. It won’t be

    long before you can take on any waiter in any restaurant and end up with a

    really great bottle.

    We have all, at one time or another, been absolutely baffled by wine. There are

    so many choices. So many labels. Dozens of countries around the world make

    wine. And every year, thanks to different weather patterns, they all produce a

    different style. Are you overwhelmed when you walk into a wine store? Are

    you reduced to a dithering mass of indecision when:

    Part II: Appreciating Wine

    This part is all about looking, smelling, and tasting, and how all your senses

    play a part in your enjoyment of wine. We also explain why some people wave

    their wineglasses around in the air before drinking. Yes, they do it for a reason.

    Part III: Enjoying Wine

    There’s a multitude of ways to enjoy wine. This part gives you some tips on

    ordering wine in restaurants (like when to send the bottle back) as well as on

    serving wine at home. You also find out which part of your basement is best

    for storing your wine and where to buy great wine to store there.

    Part IV: Wine and Food

    Wine and food go hand in hand, but have you ever wondered what wine goes

    best with what food? This part shows you how different foods affect the

    way you taste wine and how to become a successful matchmaker. We also tell

    you how to take your wine into the kitchen and come out with some superb

    dishes.

    Part V: Wineries across Canada

    This part takes you back in time to find out how the Canadian wine industry

    began. Then we take you on a cross-country tour of Canada’s wine regions.

    You find out how the Canadian climate is a constant challenge for our

    winemakers, and what choices they have to make to stack the odds in their

    (and our) favour.

    Part VI: The Part of Tens

    In this uniquely . . For Dummies? part are answers to ten frequently asked

    questions about wine. We also count down the top ten winemakers currently

    working in Ontario and British Columbia, to give you a heads up when you

    confront all that choice in the liquor store.

    3 Introduction

    Canadian Wine?Intro (p.1-4):Canadian Wine?Intro (p.1-4) 62409 12:34 PM Page 3Part VII: Appendixes

    If you find some of wine’s more technical terms a bit tricky, flip to the glossary

    in this part. Or, if you’re looking for a particular winery in Canada, check in

    the directory for addresses and informative Web sites. If you need a new

    corkscrew, are looking for a gift, or would like to build a wine cellar, then the

    list of stores specializing in wine accessories is where you want to be.

    Icons Used in This Book

    This little guy is our wine nerd. He loves to know about all the little details that

    go into winemaking (and he’ll bore you to death if you let him go on as long as

    he would like to). If you don’t want to go into that much detail, just skip over

    the text where he appears. Your enjoyment of wine won’t suffer one bit — and

    you can always refer back to him if there’s some nagging doubt in your mind.

    The bull’s eye tells you where to look for snippets of information to help you

    make better wine choices. It’ll help speed you on your way to becoming a real

    wine connoisseur. You can pick these tips out and apply them immediately to

    your wine buying and appreciation.

    Some issues in wine are so fundamental that they bear repeating. Just so you

    don’t think we repeated ourselves without realizing it, we’ll mark the repetitions

    with this symbol. It’s today’s equivalent of tying a knot in your handkerchief

    (a memory aid your mother used to tell you to do, if you’re of a certain age).

    To put Canadian wine in context, we include information about wines from

    other countries as well. This icon points you in the direction of some terrific

    international wines we suggest you try. We like them, and we think you will

    too. This icon also pops up in reference to particularly scrumptious foods —

    our other consuming passion.

    This shines the spotlight on some of Canada’s best wines. And, it’s not just

    Tony and Barb who think so. We’re proud to say that most of the wines we

    indicate with this symbol have won awards in national and international wine

    competitions. We also use this icon to indicate a relevant aspect of our

    national wine industry.

    4 Canadian Wine For Dummies

    Canadian Wine?Intro (p.1-4):Canadian Wine?Intro (p.1-4) 62409 12:34 PM Page 4Part I

    What IsWine?

    Canadian WinePart I (p.5-6):Canadian WinePart I (p.5-6) 62409 12:00 PM Page 5In this part . . .

    Before you pour your ?rst glass of wine and begin to

    explore its complexity, it helps if you understand

    exactly how grapes become wine and why different varieties

    of wine grapes, planted in different regions, taste the way

    they do.

    You may not recognize it at ?rst, but each grape has its own

    avour, and that ?avour changes in subtle or sometimes

    not so subtle ways, depending on a variety of factors,including the soil in which the grape grows, its cultivation

    in the vineyard, and what the winemaker does to it in the

    winery.

    Canadian WinePart I (p.5-6):Canadian WinePart I (p.5-6) 62409 12:00 PM Page 6Chapter 1

    WhatMakes aWine

    In This Chapter

    
Knowing what makes a wine “Canadian”

    
Realizing that air has something to do with it

    
Recognizing what grapes have to do with it

    
Explaining winemaking standards

    Making wine is both an art and a science. Anyone can make wine. You

    only need grapes (or grape juice) and yeast. Which is rather like saying

    all you need to write Hamlet is pen and paper or you can paint the Mona Lisa

    if you’ve got canvas, oil paints, and a brush.

    You can have these elements, as well as the most sophisticated presses,fermentation tanks, and new oak barrels at your disposal for winemaking; but

    unless you know how to select your grapes and what each piece of equipment

    is capable of, you’ll probably end up with something more akin to vinegar

    than wine. Reading this chapter won’t turn you into a winemaker instantly,but it will give you the basic information about how winemakers produce a

    nectar out of grape juice and the decisions they make along the way.

    Understanding What Wine Is

    Simply put, wine is fermented grape juice. It can be white, red, pink — and it

    can be sparkling in all these colours. A fermentation occurs when grape sugar

    is attacked by yeast. The sugar is converted into alcohol and the grape juice

    “magically” becomes young wine. Some enthusiasts extend the definition of

    wine to include other fruits, such as strawberries, peaches, or pears. Chapter

    21 looks at the production of fruit wine in Canada.

    Canadian wine is made from grapes that are grown in 100 percent Canadian

    soil. Is it possible, then, to have grapes that are less than 100 percent Canadian-

    grown? Well, under federal wine regulations, it is permissible to blend wines

    from other countries into Canadian-grown wines. The Canadian government

    Canadian Wine-Ch.1-4 (p.7-50):Canadian WineCh.1-4 (p.7-50) 62409 11:19 AM Page 7legislated the Wine Content Act following the Free Trade Agreement with the

    United States in 1988 to help winemakers adjust to the highly competitive

    open market. It permits winemakers to identify their wines as “Product of

    Canada” with as little as 30 percent Canadian content as long as they incur the

    cost of processing and bottling in Canada. Most of the wines in this category

    compete at the high volumelow end of the market.

    Such products, however, cannot be labelled with the symbol VQA (Vintners

    Quality Alliance), a specification reserved for wines whose grapes grow

    entirely in designated vineyard areas across the country. The VQA is an

    important winemaking organization, and we give you more details about it

    later in this chapter.

    If you want to be sure the wine you buy is 100 percent Canadian, look for the

    VQA symbol on the label or the capsule, the metal or plastic cap that covers

    the top of the bottle. This is your guarantee that the wine comes from the

    geographical location stated on the label.

    Winemaking Basics

    You can make wine using two basic methods. You crush the grapes and

    ferment the resulting must (juice and grape pulp) in either:

    The importance of air

    Oxygen is both a friend and an enemy of wine. In small amounts, it has a

    beneficial effect — maturing the wine, deepening its colour, softening its

    mouth feel (tactile sensations of the wine in your mouth) and intensifying its

    bouquet (odours derived from the winemaking process) and flavour. Too much

    oxygen, though, turns the wine into acetic acid, which tastes like vinegar. If

    you leave a small amount of wine in a glass overnight, you’ll be greeted with a

    sharp vinegar s ......