Day 3 brings stunning views of the surrounding mountains as we follow a series of switchbacks (a road, trail, or railroad track that follows a zigzag course on a steep incline) up the mountain towards Doker La. We pass a group of four Chinese trekkers making their way down in the opposite direction; they seem visibly impressed with our efforts in hauling 30kg packs up the mountain, themselves having opted for mules and muleteers to tote their loads. From the top of the pass I count over a hundred switchbacks zigzagging down the other side. With hiking sticks in both hands we carefully make our way down. One misstep could lead to a nasty tumble a few hundred meters down the face of the cliff. After a few hours of cautious descent we reach a clearing where a group of 12 Tibetan pilgrims gather around to inspect our equipment and engage us in small talk. My feet begin to bother me, and I notice I've started to develop multiple blisters.

    第三天 ......