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Whiskey Spirits
FOR
DUMmIES‰
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page i01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page iiWhiskey Spirits
FOR
DUMmIES‰
by Perry Luntz
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page iiiWhiskey Spirits For Dummies?
Published by
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright ? 2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page ivAbout the Author
Perry Luntz has been involved in one way or another with the
beverage alcohol business most of his adult life. For more than
20 years he has been publisher and editor of Beverage Alcohol
Market Report, an international e-letter for marketing executives
in beer, wine, and spirits. He served as Director of Marketing
Communications for Seagram Distillers for a decade, worked on
the creative side of several advertising agencies, including a spell
as a creative director of a Young Rubicam division, and for sev-
eral years headed his own marketing communications agency.
A consultant, lecturer, teacher, and news media source, Perry
is frequently interviewed in newspapers, radio, and television,including the BBC. He is chairman emeritus of the Wine Media
Guild, proving he knows his way around vineyards and breweries,as well as distilleries.
Like many native New Yorkers, Perry is a political junky. He served
several years as president of a highly regarded NYC political club.
For the past decade, Perry has been Senior Editor of the Beverage
Media Group, a network of trade magazines read by 140,000
licensed retailers. He also writes a weekly column for the group’s
B-to-B Internet site.
He lives with his wife Carol Ann Rinzler in the Center of the Known
Universe — Midtown Manhattan — occasionally visiting his home
town of Brooklyn, where his son Russell lives with wife Lisa
Di Gennaro. In the winter, he and Carol often become “snow birds”
to descend on the rest of their family, Ira, Jacky, and grandsons
Ari and Eli, who live in Sarasota, Florida.
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page v01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viDedication
For Lloyd, whose light is gone but whose spirit is always with us.
Acknowledgments
It’s impossible to say how much I owe to Carol Ann Rinzler, my wife,confidant, love of my life, and a damned good editor as well as a
prolific and terrific author. I’ll settle for saying just this: I couldn’t
have done it without you!
For my children, Ira and Jackie, Russell and Lisa, and my grand-
children Ari and Eli — my cheering section — most appreciation
and love.
On a professional level, my blessings are extended to the many
friends and mentors in the spirits business with whom I’ve worked
over the years. They are the most generous and forthcoming
people in the world, and I love them all.
In particular, I want to thank Bill Slone, whose support made this
book possible. Special acknowledgment goes to my oldest and
wisest friends in the business, Gerry Slone, Ron Kapon, and Herbert
Silverman, as well as the two best mixologists in the world, Dale
De Grof and Ray Foley.
Particular thanks to Lisa Hawkins of DISCUS and Chris Morris of
Brown-Forman, who helped make sure the chapter on distillation
was accurate. In all cases, any errors are mine, not those who
helped me.
And of course where would this book have been without the gentle
editorial ministrations of Wiley’s Michael Lewis, Tim Gallan, Sarah
Faulkner, and my guardian angel agent Phyllis Westberg.
It was a long time coming, but I hope all who contributed to it enjoy
reading this book as much as I enjoyed writing it.
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viiPublisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online
registration form located at www.dummies.comregister.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
Acquisitions, Editorial, and
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Senior Project Editor: Tim Gallan
Acquisitions Editor: Michael Lewis
Copy Editor: Sarah Faulkner
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Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies
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01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viiiContents at a Glance
Introduction.......................................................1
Part I: Entering the Spirits World ........................7
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits ..................................................9
Chapter 2: How Distilled Spirits Are Created........................................23
Chapter 3: Enjoying Spirits......................................................................43
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World...........59
Chapter 4: Sipping the Irish Whiskeys...................................................61
Chapter 5: Saluting the Scots..................................................................79
Chapter 6: American Cousins: Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey .....97
Chapter 7: More Whiskeys from America
and Other Parts of the World .........................................................115
Chapter 8: Channeling the Canadians..................................................131
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits...............................147
Chapter 9: Getting the Goods on Gin...................................................149
Chapter 10: Vodka: Toasting the Russians ..........................................169
Chapter 11: Tequila: Unearthing the Aztecs .......................................191
Chapter 12: Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum .........................................209
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials...231
Chapter 13: Cultivating Brandy ............................................................233
Chapter 14: Collecting Cordials, Lining Up Liqueurs.........................255
Part V: The Part of Tens..................................275
Chapter 15: Ten (or so) Classic Spirits Cocktails...............................277
Chapter 16: Ten Spirited Dishes ...........................................................291
Chapter 17: Ten Nutrition Profiles of Alcohol Beverages..................303
Chapter 18: Ten (or so) Health Benefits of Moderate Drinking........307
Index.............................................................317
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page ix02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page x
Introduction .......................................................1
Conventions Used in This Book ................................................2
What You’re Not to Read............................................................2
Foolish Assumptions ..................................................................3
How This Book Is Organized......................................................3
Part I: Entering the Spirits World....................................4
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World......................4
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits.............................................4
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials................4
Part V: The Part of Tens...................................................5
Icons Used in This Book.............................................................5
Where to Go from Here ..............................................................5
Part I: Entering the Spirits World.........................7
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits . . . . 9
A Brief History of Distilled Spirits.............................................9
Eureka! Wine! Beer! .........................................................10
Advancing the art ...........................................................10
Distillation arrives ..........................................................12
The secret gets out.........................................................12
The process goes global ................................................14
Setting Standards for Producing Modern Distilled Spirits...15
The not-so-noble experiment ........................................15
New rules for better times.............................................16
The Types of Spirits..................................................................17
The clear spirits..............................................................17
The dark spirits...............................................................18
A Word about the Words..........................................................19
Chapter 2: How Distilled Spirits Are Created . . 23
The Distillation Process in a Nutshell ....................................23
The Basic Material for Distilling..............................................26
Milling and Mashing..................................................................26
Starting the fermentation process................................27
Bringing on the micros...................................................28
Distilling: The Main Event ........................................................28
The pot still .....................................................................29
The column still ..............................................................33
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiAging Gracefully........................................................................35
The classic oak barrel ....................................................36
Is getting older always better?......................................37
Blending Science with Art........................................................37
Straight spirits.................................................................38
Blended spirits................................................................38
Bottle, Bottle, Who’s Got the Bottle?......................................40
Choosing a model bottle................................................40
The bottling line..............................................................40
Chapter 3: Enjoying Spirits . . . . . . 43
Assembling the Accoutrements ..............................................43
Choosing your spirit.......................................................44
Setting the tasting table.................................................45
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................46
Getting to the Good Part ..........................................................48
Enjoying the view: Color and legs ................................48
The nose knows ..............................................................49
The tasting technique ....................................................50
Describing what you’re tasting .....................................51
Serving Spirits Day to Day .......................................................53
Choosing a liquor store..................................................53
Surfing the Net ................................................................54
Reading a spirits label....................................................54
Protecting your investment...........................................55
Taking temperature into account .................................56
Avoiding glass warfare ...................................................56
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World............59
Chapter 4: Sipping the Irish Whiskeys . . . . 61
Entering the Emerald Isle.........................................................61
Tracking the origins of Irish whiskey...........................62
Sailing the Irish seas.......................................................63
Beginning well: The early days
of the Irish whiskey trade ..........................................63
Go west, young distiller .................................................64
Losing — and again finding — the luck of the Irish ...65
The Uniqueness of Irish Whiskey ...........................................66
Beginning with barley ....................................................66
Following the flow...........................................................67
Firing the spirit ...............................................................67
The Leading Irish Whiskeys.....................................................68
Midleton...........................................................................69
Bushmills .........................................................................71
Cooley ..............................................................................71
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiiTasting Irish Whiskey ...............................................................73
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................73
Setting up the tasting .....................................................73
Observing and tasting the whiskeys ............................73
Planning a Blended Meal ..........................................................76
Touring the Source ...................................................................76
Chapter 5: Saluting the Scots . . . . . 79
Which Came First: Whiskey or Whisky?.................................79
From monastery to market............................................80
The “smugglers” take to the high seas ........................81
Making Scotch Whisky .............................................................82
The Scottish difference..................................................82
Distilling the whisky .......................................................84
The Styles of Scotch Whisky ...................................................85
The whisky-making regions of Scotland: Where the
single malts come from and the blends are born ...86
Blended Scotch whiskies ...............................................89
Tasting Scotch Whisky .............................................................91
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................92
Choosing your samples..................................................92
Appreciating the appearance........................................93
Inhaling the aromas........................................................93
Tasting the flavors ..........................................................94
Planning a Scotch-Friendly Meal .............................................95
Traveling through Distillery Land...........................................96
Chapter 6: American Cousins: Bourbon
and Tennessee Whiskey . . . . . . 97
Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of . . Whiskey? .......................98
Rumbling to rebellion.....................................................99
Over the mountains......................................................100
Bourbon beginnings .....................................................100
The great schism: Bourbon gets its name,and Tennessee splits ................................................101
Making Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey ...........................104
Selecting the grain and making the mash..................104
Fermenting and producing distillate..........................105
Distilling the whiskey ...................................................106
Changing the color and building the flavor:
Aging...........................................................................106
Filtering..........................................................................107
The Types of Bourbon............................................................107
Tasting Bourbons and Tennessee Whiskeys .......................108
Gentlemen, choose your whiskeys.............................108
What your senses sense when you taste
Bourbon or Tennessee whiskey..............................110
Pairing Foods with Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey.......111
Touring the Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey Distilleries ...112
xiii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiiiChapter 7: More Whiskeys from America
and Other Parts of the World . . . . 115
The Character of American Blended Whiskey ....................116
The birth of the blends ................................................116
A man with a plan.........................................................117
Building a Blended Whiskey..................................................119
Producing a unique American flavor..........................119
Choosing whiskeys for the blend ...............................120
Tasting American Blended Whiskeys ...................................121
Choosing the whiskeys ................................................121
What you see, taste, and smell when sampling
American blended whiskey .....................................123
Planning an American Blended Meal....................................124
Traveling the American Whiskey Trail .................................125
Off the Beaten Whiskey Trails...............................................126
Japan ..............................................................................126
India................................................................................127
New Zealand..................................................................128
Wales ..............................................................................129
Chapter 8: Channeling the Canadians. . . . 131
Starting at the Top (of the World) ........................................131
Molson’s multitudinous accomplishments ...............131
Entering the modern era with a bang ........................132
Moving into the modern markets ...............................135
What Makes a Whisky Canadian? .........................................136
How Canadian Whisky Is Made .............................................137
Tasting the Best of Canada ....................................................139
Selecting the whiskies for your tasting......................140
Savoring the flavor of Canadian whisky ....................143
Pairing Foods with Canadian Whisky...................................144
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits................................147
Chapter 9: Getting the Goods on Gin . . . . 149
The Origins of Gin...................................................................149
Hello, Holland; welcome, jenevre ...............................150
Holland’s balm for British soldiers.............................150
The Brits Take Charge ............................................................151
Protecting the home teams .........................................151
Spreading the gin gospel..............................................152
Riding out the rougher years ......................................153
Making Modern Gin ................................................................154
Protecting the secret ....................................................154
Creating the flavor ........................................................155
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xiv
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xivTouring the World of Gin........................................................156
British gins.....................................................................156
American gins................................................................159
Holland gins...................................................................161
Gins from other countries ...........................................161
Tasting the World’s Gin ..........................................................163
What to look for when tasting gin ..............................164
What to sniff and sip ....................................................165
Serving Gin...............................................................................167
Chapter 10: Vodka: Toasting the Russians . . . 169
What Is Vodka, Anyway? ........................................................169
The Birth of a “Breathless” Spirit .........................................170
The monks move north................................................170
The Russians stake a claim .........................................171
Huzzah for Ivan IV, the not-so-terrible czar...............171
Regulations, regulations, and more............................172
Vodka Takes a Long Voyage...................................................172
“Why would people pay money for this stuff?” ........173
With a kick like a Moscow mule..................................174
Yesterday, the Cold War; today, the world ................175
Distilling Vodka........................................................................176
First comes the mash...................................................177
Next comes fermentation ............................................177
Don’t forget the water ..................................................177
Into the still ...................................................................178
And then into the bottle ..............................................178
The Second Vodka Revolution: The Flavor Factor .............179
Tasting Vodkas ........................................................................181
Creating the tasting sheet............................................181
Classifying vodkas ........................................................182
Tasting vodka neat .......................................................186
Sampling vodkas: What to see, sniff, and taste.........186
Serving vodka after the tasting...................................187
The Foods That Match the Drinks ........................................188
Chapter 11: Tequila: Unearthing the Aztecs. . 191
The First North American Spirit ...........................................192
Ancient history .............................................................192
Tequila’s middle ages...................................................194
Tequila’s trek north ......................................................196
Defining Tequila: New Standards for
a New Global Spirit .............................................................196
How Tequila Is Made ..............................................................198
Choosing the base material.........................................198
Pressing the agave........................................................199
Preparing the mash ......................................................200
Fermenting the wort.....................................................201
xv
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xvDistilling not once but twice .......................................201
Aging the spirit..............................................................201
Blending and bottling...................................................202
The Different Brands of Tequila ............................................203
Tasting Tequila and Mezcal ...................................................205
Making a tasting sheet .................................................205
Choosing the Tequilas to taste ...................................206
Tasting the Tequilas .....................................................206
Pairing Food with Tequila ......................................................207
Chapter 12: Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum . . . 209
The History of Rum ................................................................209
From arak to rum..........................................................210
Hooray for Christopher Columbus.............................210
Rum rises .......................................................................211
Sugar into rum: A trade bonus....................................211
How Rum Is Produced............................................................212
The base.........................................................................213
Fermentation.................................................................214
Distillation .....................................................................214
Aging...............................................................................215
Blending .........................................................................215
Flavoring a favorite.......................................................216
Where That Rum Is From and Why It Matters.....................217
Hola! Rums from the Caribbean..................................217
Other places, other rums ............................................224
Tasting the World’s Rums ......................................................227
Prepping your tasting sheet ........................................227
Selecting the rums you want to sample.....................227
Gettin’ to tastin’ ............................................................228
Trying the rum with mixers.........................................229
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials ...231
Chapter 13: Cultivating Brandy. . . . . 233
The “Champagne” of Distilled Spirits...................................234
Where Do Brandies Come From? ..........................................234
France.............................................................................235
Spain...............................................................................239
Italy.................................................................................239
United States .................................................................240
Other places, other brandies ......................................241
Brandy by Type.......................................................................244
Wine brandies ...............................................................244
Fruit brandies................................................................244
Pomace brandies ..........................................................244
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xvi
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviDistilling Brandies...................................................................245
Choosing a base............................................................245
Bringing out the spirit ..................................................245
Aging...............................................................................246
Blending .........................................................................247
Tasting Brandy ........................................................................248
Tasting by type..............................................................248
Tasting by country .......................................................249
Tasting by price ............................................................250
What you taste (and smell) when
you sniff and sip........................................................250
Serving Brandy: Neat or Mixed? Warm or Cool?.................251
Pairing Brandy and Food .......................................................252
Flambé — with care......................................................252
Chapter 14: Collecting Cordials,Lining Up Liqueurs . . . . . . 255
The Birth of the Liqueur ........................................................256
The first “medicines”....................................................257
Cordial? Liqueur? A tale of two words .......................258
Cordially Yours: The Making .................................................258
Choosing the base spirit ..............................................259
Marking the differences ...............................................259
Adding the flavor ..........................................................260
The final touches ..........................................................261
The two types of cordials ............................................262
Cordials by the Ingredients ...................................................263
Fruit flavors ...................................................................264
Seeds and nuts ..............................................................266
Branded, spirit-based...................................................268
Cream liqueurs..............................................................269
Bitters.............................................................................270
Two classic liqueurs.....................................................271
A Cordial Tasting.....................................................................271
Pairing Foods with Cordials and Liqueurs...........................273
Part V: The Part of Tens...................................275
Chapter 15: Ten (or so) Classic Spirits Cocktails . . 277
Oops! Tomato Juice on My Blouse: The Bloody Mary .......277
Alexander! Another Brandy! ..................................................279
War Is Hell, so Pass the Rum — in a Daiquiri,if You Please.........................................................................280
A Shipboard Romance: The Gimlet.......................................281
Uptown, Downtown: The Manhattan....................................282
If You Knew Margie Like I Know Margie: The Margarita.....283
The World’s Most Famous Cocktail: The Martini................284
xvii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviiA Cuban Cup of Cheer: The Mojito .......................................285
The Highland Fling: Rob Roy .................................................286
Simple Perfection: The Whiskey Sour ..................................287
Horses, Grass, and Mint: The Mint Julep.............................288
Chapter 16: Ten Spirited Dishes . . . . 291
Chilled Melon Pepper Soup with Glazed Shrimp................292
Game Paté Terrine ..................................................................293
Marinated Salmon...................................................................295
Penne à la Vodka .....................................................................296
Chicken Fajitas ........................................................................297
Filet Mignon with Whiskey Sauce .........................................298
Green Beans with Toasted Pine Nuts ...................................299
Tennessee Whiskey Candied Apples ....................................300
AppleJack Pound Cake ...........................................................301
Nut Ball Cookies......................................................................302
Chapter 17: Ten Nutrition Profiles
of Alcohol Beverages . . . . . . 303
Rum...........................................................................................304
Gin.............................................................................................304
Vodka ........................................................................................304
Whiskey....................................................................................304
Coffee Liqueur .........................................................................305
Coffee with Cream Liqueur ....................................................305
Whiskey Sour (Cocktail, Made from a Powdered Mix).......305
Tequila Sunrise (Cocktail, Canned) ......................................306
Pi?a Colada (Cocktail, Canned) ............................................306
Daiquiri (Cocktail, Canned) ...................................................306
Chapter 18: Ten (or so) Health Benefits
of Moderate Drinking . . . . . . 307
Heartening News.....................................................................308
Lowering Bad Cholesterol, Raising Good Cholesterol .......309
Busting Blood Clots ................................................................310
Lowering the Pressure ...........................................................310
Staving Off Stroke....................................................................312
Deterring Diabetes..................................................................312
Protecting Intelligence ...........................................................313
Preserving the Brain...............................................................314
Boosting Bones .......................................................................314
Enhancing Appetite ................................................................315
Controlling Weight ..................................................................315
Countering the Common Cold...............................................316
Index .............................................................317
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xviii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviiiIntroduction
For thousands of years man and womankind celebrated major
events — religious and secular — by having a taste or even
two of a fermented beverage that contained alcohol. Things got
even tastier around 800 CE — the height of development of the
Moorish culture. That’s when a brilliant alchemist in the perpetual
search for a way to turn lead into gold attempted to urge the
release of the “essence” of various fruits and grains. The result was
not only better than anything ever enjoyed before, but it also could
be repeated over and over again.
That brilliant alchemist had found distillation. The art of making
the most noble of beverages was created by nature and perfected
by men and women. This book is dedicated to giving you a full
explanation of distillation from the simplest and most popular
spirit (vodka) to the most complicated (whiskey and brandy).
No, Whiskey Spirits For Dummies definitely won’t tell you how to
set up your very own still in the basement (or bathtub) so that you
can whip up a batch of your very own whiskey, gin, vodka, Tequila,rum, cordial, or Cognac.
Instead, this book aims to increase your appreciation of the quali-
ties in fine distilled spirits, enabling you to make wise choices from
the myriad products on the shelves in your local liquor store or in
the literally hundreds of cocktails available for serving or drinking
on social occasions. Drinking alcohol beverages is indeed a social
thing to do. It’s also part of religious services, and its use as a psy-
chic benefit is unquestioned. There are other sides to these noble
beverages as well.
This book also presents some ways in which a measured drink or
two a day can create a more healthful way to live. I also talk about
how to avoid any of the unpleasant results that can come from
drinking too much.
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 1For those readers who know absolutely nothing about distilled
spirits other than that these beverages enhance a social setting
and dining experience, this book is a good place to start to pick up
the basics.
More experienced connoisseurs will find this a refresher course
that can confirm their own good taste, introduce them to a few new
types and brands of distilled spirits, and provide the kind of odds
and ends — for example, why whiskey is spelled whiskey in Ireland
and whisky in Scotland — that enliven cocktail conversation. And,yes, I give you several classic cocktail recipes in here, too.
Conventions Used in This Book
To make the text consistent and easier to read, Whiskey Spirits
For Dummies follows the usual Dummies style. For example:
All Web addresses are printed in monofont.
When this book was printed, some Web addresses may have
needed to break across two lines of text. If that happened, rest
assured that I didn’t put in any extra characters (such as
hyphens) to indicate the break. So, when using one of these
Web addresses, just type in exactly what you see in this book,pretending that the line break doesn’t exist.
New terms appear in italic type and are followed by an easy-
to-understand definition.
Bold type is used to highlight the action parts of numbered
steps.
What You’re Not to Read
Imagine: An author telling you that you don’t have to read every
word that appears in his book. The truth is that some small parts
of this book are fun or provide information that you may not find
anywhere else, but they aren’t absolutely essential to your under-
standing of the basic facts about distilled spirits. For example:
The text in sidebars: These shaded boxes are exactly that —
sidebars to the main event — a little anecdote here, a special
factoid there. Fascinating, but not essential.
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
2
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 2 The text next to a Technical Stuff icon: Readers who want to
know every single fact about how things work will find these
paragraphs a delight. Readers who can do without the techni-
cal details can surf on by.
The text on the copyright page: Really. This page is for pub-
lishers and libraries. If my editor put the dedication there to
save space, I think you should read about the people who
helped make this book possible, but the publisher’s address?
The number of editions? The Library of Congress identifica-
tion number? Nah.
Foolish Assumptions
If an author clicks the computer, hits typewriter keys, or pushes a
quill pen across the page, what’s in front of him or her is an image
of the person for whom the book is being written. These are some
of the assumptions I made about you:
You know the names of the different types of distilled spirits,but you may not be totally familiar with the characteristics
that differentiate a whiskey from a Tequila (you may even
know why Tequila is spelled with a capital letter and whiskey
is not).
You’ve read conflicting reports about the risks and benefits of
spirits (and other kinds of alcohol beverages), and you want
to pin down the real facts.
You want the basic information about these products and how
they’re made, but you have no intention of opening your own
distillery. That’s good, because a few paragraphs back you were
told that this book isn’t designed to tell you how to do that.
Most important, you enjoy the flavor, aroma, and panache of
distilled spirits — but only and always in moderation.
How This Book Is Organized
The following is a brief summary of each part of Whiskey Spirits
For Dummies. You can use this as a fast guide to check out the stuff
you want to go to first, because the best thing about a For Dummies
book is that no one expects you to start at Chapter 1 and work your
way straight through to the end. Each chapter here is a whole little
book of its own, which means that you can start anywhere and still
come out with a wealth of new information about distilled spirits.
Introduction 3
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 3Part I: Entering the Spirits World
Chapter 1 is (what else?) a general introduction to the universe of
distilled spirits. Chapter 2 is more technical: A detailed description
of the distillation process in all its traditional glory. Chapter 3 tells
you how to serve, evaluate, and enjoy the products produced in
Chapter 2.
Part II: Whiskeys from
Around the World
Chapter 4 is all about how the Irish introduced the first whiskeys.
Chapter 5 explains how the Scots adopted the Irish spirits — and
changed the spelling to “whisky,” thus confusing generation after
generation of whiskey (or is it whisky?) drinkers.
Chapter 6 salutes two quintessential Americans — Bourbon and
Tennessee whiskey. Chapter 7 describes the other great American
innovation, American blended whiskey, and tells you all about
upstarts from India, Japan, and New Zealand. Chapter 8 goes north
to talk about a Canadian contribution to New World whisky choices.
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits
Chapter 9 focuses on gin, from its birth in the Netherlands, toward
its perfection in London, through its Prohibition adolescence, to its
present presence. Chapter 10 is about vodka, the clear Russian
spirit now often enjoyed in totally unexpected flavors. Chapter 11
is all about Tequila, the Aztec contribution to your drinking pleas-
ure. Chapter 12 focuses on rum, the spirit made from sugar cane
first carried to the Western hemisphere by Christopher Columbus.
Yes, that Christopher Columbus.
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner”
Specials
The subject of Chapter 13 is Winston Churchill’s favorite spirit,brandy. Chapter 14 rewards the sweet tooth with info about the
sweet stuff: cordials and liqueurs.
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
4
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 4Part V: The Part of Tens
This is the part of the book regular For Dummies readers never
skip. Chapter 15 pours recipes for ten classic cocktails (with an
extra from the bartender). Chapter 16 dishes out menu choices —
entrees, main dishes, veggies, and desserts — whose ingredients
include at least one type of spirit. Chapter 17 tells what nutrients
are in one serving of each type of distilled spirits. Chapter 18
concludes with the actual health benefits of moderate spirits
consumption.
Icons Used in This Book
This icon points out general good ideas, such as serving sugges-
tions, buying advice, and so forth.
I use this icon to highlight important concepts that you shouldn’t
forget.
This icon flags nonessential information that may be too technical
or detailed for some readers. You can skip it if you want.
Where to Go from Here
Now the question is where to begin reading. The real answer is any-
where your curiosity takes you in the . However,one good starting point is Chapter 2, the one that explains how dis-
tilled spirits are made. A second good starting point is Chapter 3,the one that shows you how to enjoy distilled products. Both chap-
ters have information that applies to all types of spirits.
Wherever you start, hopefully it will be a trip you’ll remember for a
long time. Good traveling.
Introduction 5
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 5Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
6
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 6Part I
Entering the
Spirits World
04_117699 pt01.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 7In this part . . .
Just like that ?rst sip of your favorite spirit, this part
is pure pleasure. Here I trace the history of distilled
spirits, right from the beginning in the 11th century. I also
explain the distillation process, and I offer tips on how to
serve and enjoy distilled spirits. I recommend reading the
chapters in this part if you’re new to the spirits world; this
information is bound to whet your appetite for the various
alcohol beverages you can read about in the rest of the
book. Pour yourself a glass of whiskey, settle into your
most comfortable chair, and start reading.
04_117699 pt01.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 8Chapter 1
Discovering Distilled Spirits
In This Chapter
How distilled spirits were invented
How distilled spirits became popular
The foods from which spirits are made
The varieties of distilled spirits
This chapter is called “Discovering Distilled Spirits,” but
“Distilled Spirits 101” would also do nicely because this is a
down-to-earth basic guide to the multicultural history of the won-
derful beverages human beings produce via distillation.
Naturally, the chapter includes some spirits history, starting with a
graceful bow to other types of alcohol beverages and how they
differ from the distilled varieties. The different types of spirits are
listed here, as are the foods from which they’re made. And just for
kicks, I give you a quiz about famous spirits (okay, famous ghosts)
in classic movies.
A Brief History of Distilled Spirits
The road to distilled spirits begins with those other beverages,wine and beer.
The story starts one day back in the dim, distant past at a point
that most anthropologists peg between 5000 and 6000 BCE. A
goatherd in the Tigris-Euphrates valley (now Iraq), where human
beings created their first agricultural communities, noticed that his
flock was friskier than usual.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 9Part I: Entering the Spirits World
10
Looking closely, he saw the goats feasting on rotting grapes fallen
from a nearby vine. Being a curious goatherd, he tasted a few
grapes himself. Then he tried a few more, and maybe another
handful after that, and soon goats and goatherd ambled happily
back to their village to share their discovery with others.
Of course, you know what that anonymous goatherd didn’t: Those
“rotten” grapes had fermented.
In other words, naturally occurring microorganisms in the air had
landed on the grapes and started feeding on the fruit, digesting the
grape sugars, and turning them into gas (carbon dioxide) and
liquid ethanolethyl alcohol, which is the same alcohol used in all
modern alcohol beverages.
Eureka! Wine! Beer!
Very quickly, the goatherd’s friends, neighbors, and acquaintances
far and near grasped the idea that squeezing rotten, sorry,fermented, fruit released a pleasantly intoxicating beverage called
wine (from the Greek vinos, the Latin vinum, the Old English win,and the Germanic winam).
And then they discovered that fermenting grains released an
equally pleasant intoxicating beverage called beer (from the Latin
bibere [to drink], the German bier, and the Old English beor,pronounced beer).
After that, a jolly good time was had pretty much everywhere fruits
and grains were grown. And it was a profitable time, as well: The
oldest known Sumerian tablet is a receipt for a shipment of beer
from Mesopotamia to some lucky merchant in Northern Greece.
This tablet is a hunk of clay that made it possible for modern
scholars to translate the language of Sumer, the nation of Middle
Eastern city-states that was one of the world’s earliest civilizations.
Advancing the art
At first, folks were content with wine and beer. But being human
and naturally inquisitive, they began to experiment with ways to
standardize the fermentation process because they wanted to
manage the production and improve the quality of alcohol
beverages.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 10The first step was to take control of fermentation by adding spe-
cific microorganisms (yeasts) to the fruit and grains rather than
simply allowing miscellaneous little buggers to waft in and ferment
the fruit by accident.
The second step was to distill alcohol from the liquid released by
the fermented food.
Unlike the discovery of fermentation, which seems to have been a
happy coincidence, learning how to distill alcohol was the result of
a deliberate series of experiments conducted by an Arab scholar
named Abu Musa Jabir ibn Hayyam (?–803 CE). Most modern scien-
tists generally accept Jabir, known in the West as Geber, as the
Father of Modern Chemistry.
Sometime during the eighth century CE — these dates are never
quite as clear as one might like them to be — Geber was puttering
around with his al-ambiq, a round pot with a tall spout rising from
the top, sort of like an oversized tea kettle. When liquid was heated
in the pot, the vapors rose through the spout to be cooled, con-
densed, and collected as a liquid in a vessel conveniently posi-
tioned under the spout.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 11
Not all alcohol is “alcohol”
Ethanol (ethyl alcohol) is the only alcohol used in food and beverages, but it isn’t
the only alcohol used in consumer products.
Other alcohols that may be sitting on the shelf in your bathroom or workshop are:
Methyl alcohol (methanol):Methanol is a poisonous alcohol made from wood.
It’s used as a chemical solvent (a liquid that dissolves other chemicals). During
Prohibition, when the sale of beverage alcohol was illegal, some unscrupulous
illegal producers would substitute methanol for ethanol, thus leading to many
truly unpleasant results, such as blindness and even death, among people who
drank it.
Isopropyl alcohol (isoproanol, “rubbing alcohol”): Isopropyl alcohol is a poi-
sonous alcohol made from propylene, a petroleum derivative. It’s denatured,which means that it includes a substance that makes it taste and smell bad so
you won’t drink it by mistake.
Denatured alcohol: When ethanol is used in cosmetics, such as hair tonic, it,too, is treated to make it smell and taste bad. Treated ethanol is called dena-
tured alcohol. Some denaturants (the chemicals used to denature the alcohol)
are poisonous, so some denatured alcohol is also poisonous when taken inter-
nally. In other words, it’s definitely not a good idea to drink your hair tonic.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 11Part I: Entering the Spirits World
12
The al-ambiq was standard equipment for alchemists, the medieval
practitioners who spent their lives trying to turn base metal into
gold and, as a sideline, looking for the magical “elixir of life” that
would make men immortal.
But Geber, who may have been a wine aficionado, took a different
tack. He wondered what would happen if he poured wine into the
al-ambiq and boiled it.
In other words — “Eureka!” will do nicely — the man was about to
invent distillation.
Distillation arrives
It’s a physical fact that alcohol boils at a lower temperature than
water, so when Geber poured his wine into his al-ambiq and set the
pot over a fire, the alcohol in the fermented grape juice or the fer-
mented grain and water mixture used to make beer vaporized
before the rest of the liquid in the pot.
The alcohol vapors rose through the spout on the al-ambiq, were
collected and condensed, and, just like that, Geber produced the
world’s first distilled spirit. And it needed a new name.
The solution was simple: While some alchemists were playing
around with longevity tonics, early cosmeticians used their
al-ambiqs to boil up powdered antimony in water, producing a
dark liquid called kohl or al-kohl.
Al-kohl became alcohol. The al-ambiq became the alembic still, also
known as the pot still, which is described in detail in Chapter 2.
And that’s how your favorite distilled spirit drink was born.
The secret gets out
Geber died in 803 CE, but his distillation process lived on among
his Arab compatriots who used the distillate they produced not as
a beverage but as a medicine.
The Arabs kept distillation to themselves for several centuries,taking their secrets with them to the Iberian Peninsula when they
conquered Spain. When Spain expelled its non-Christian citizens in
1492 and Portugal followed suit in 1597, the secrets of how to make
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 12grain and fruits into a potent medicine remained behind to be
taken in hand by those doctors of the Middle Ages — monastery
monks. Like the Arabs, the monks prescribed the distillates, includ-
ing some that they originated — such as Benedictine and
Chartreuse liqueurs — for medicinal purposes.
The missionarymedicine men met with enough successes to con-
vince the European pagans that these liquids carried the blessings
of God to assure a long, healthy life. Around the year 1300, Arnald
of Villanova, a professor of medicine at Montpellier (France), one
of the earliest European medical schools, compiled the first (hand)
written instructions for distilling alcohol from wine.
Arnald christened distilled alcohol aqua vitae (Latin for “water of
life”), which translated to eau de vie in French, uisege beatha
among the Celts, akavit in Scandinavia, and vodkawodka (“dear
little water”) in Russia and Poland. By any name, the distillate was
reputed, in Villanova’s words, to “prolong life, clear away ill-
humors, revive the heart, and maintain youth.” Others claimed it
also alleviated diseases of the brain, nerves, and joints; calmed
toothaches; cured blindness, speech defects, and paralysis; and
warded off the Black Death.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 13
Moderation is the message
In 1478, 48 years after Gutenberg invented the printing press, an Austrian physician
named Michael Puff von Schrick published the very first book on distillation. Puff’s
piece immediately hit the 15th-century bestseller list, going through 14 editions in 20
years.
Most readers probably bought the book to use as a medical reference, but a sig-
nificant number likely picked it up in order to learn how to make distilled spirits with
local fruits and other produce for pleasure.
The new distilled spirits were very popular, so much so that in 1496, a doctor in
Nuremberg, Germany, whose name is unfortunately lost to history, offered a word
to the wise imbiber: “In view of the fact that everyone at present has gotten into the
habit of drinking aqua vitae, it is necessary to remember the quantity one can permit
oneself to drink, and learn to drink it according to one’s capacity, if one wishes to
behave as a gentleman.”
Sounds as good today as it did then.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 13Part I: Entering the Spirits World
14
Not surprisingly, nobody at all complained about having to take
Arnald’s medicine instead of the crushed leaves, boiled grains, and
pressed herbs it came from.
The process goes global
Serendipitously, the spread of distillation occurred just as
Europeans began to seriously explore and colonize the world,establishing regular trade routes between Europe and the East and
Europe and the New World.
The Spanish and the Portuguese were leaders in the exploration
game, bringing back new products and taking their alcohol bever-
ages with them. Spirits, in particular, were a win-win trade-off
because they were
Virtually unknown in the lands the explorers explored
Easy to produce
A really smart way to turn an excess crop, such as grain, into
a cash product rather than leaving it to rot in the field
A stable beverage that resisted spoilage and turned tastier as
it aged in wooden barrels
Best of all, distilled spirits were a totally natural product that —
after distillation became common knowledge — could be produced
from virtually any local plant anywhere in the world. As a result, by
the 19th century, distilled spirits of one sort or another were avail-
able pretty much anywhere a traveler traveled.
Table 1-1 is a list of the plant foods that can be fermented to pro-
vide the base for making distilled spirits.
Table 1-1 Foods Used in Distillation
This Food . . . . Makes This Distilled Spirit
Grains
Oats Scotch whisky
Rice Sake (distilled rice wine), Japanese whiskey
Rye Whiskey
Wheat Whiskey, vodka
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 14This Food . . . . Makes This Distilled Spirit
Fruits and Vegetables
Agave fruit (pi?a) Tequila
Apples Apple jack, brandy
Grapes Brandy, eau de vie, grappa
Other fruits Brandy, cordials, liqueurs
Potatoes Vodka
Sweeteners
Sugar cane, molasses Rum, aguardiente, cacha?a
Honey Cordials, liqueurs
Botanicals (Herbs and Seeds) Gin, cordials, liqueurs
Setting Standards for Producing
Modern Distilled Spirits
Distilled spirits came to the United States just as they had every-
where else — with the explorers and the immigrants. The Irish
brought their own whiskey and so did the Scots. The Brits and
Dutch brought gin, the French brandy, and Slavic people vodka.
The only difference was that while religious objections led to
forbidding the use of any alcohol beverages (including spirits) in
some countries, the United States stands alone in having once
prohibited drinking for political reasons. (State legislatures under
pressure from their constituents passed bans of varying severity
on beverage alcohol production and distribution. So many states
had bans, in fact, that ultimately the federal government had to
follow suit or face interstate warfare.)
The not-so-noble experiment
In 1917, following years of agitation by anti-alcohol activists and
the passage of prohibition laws in a number of states, the United
States Congress passed the 18th Amendment to the Constitution
prohibiting distribution or sale of alcohol beverages nationally.
One exception: Medical purposes with a prescription only.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 15
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 15Part I: Entering the Spirits World
16
Two years later, after ratification by the requisite three-fourths of
the states, Prohibition became the law of the land. Congress then
passed the Volstead Act (the National Prohibition Enforcement
Act) defining an alcohol beverage as any liquid containing more
than 0.5 percent alcohol.
The result was an increase in crime as Americans in general said,“No way,” to what President Herbert Hoover called “the Noble
Experiment.” Americans did their drinking at home or in speakeasies
(nightclubs hidden behind locked doors, opened only to a secret
password such as “Joe sent me”). Alcoh ......
FOR
DUMmIES‰
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page i01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page iiWhiskey Spirits
FOR
DUMmIES‰
by Perry Luntz
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page iiiWhiskey Spirits For Dummies?
Published by
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright ? 2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page ivAbout the Author
Perry Luntz has been involved in one way or another with the
beverage alcohol business most of his adult life. For more than
20 years he has been publisher and editor of Beverage Alcohol
Market Report, an international e-letter for marketing executives
in beer, wine, and spirits. He served as Director of Marketing
Communications for Seagram Distillers for a decade, worked on
the creative side of several advertising agencies, including a spell
as a creative director of a Young Rubicam division, and for sev-
eral years headed his own marketing communications agency.
A consultant, lecturer, teacher, and news media source, Perry
is frequently interviewed in newspapers, radio, and television,including the BBC. He is chairman emeritus of the Wine Media
Guild, proving he knows his way around vineyards and breweries,as well as distilleries.
Like many native New Yorkers, Perry is a political junky. He served
several years as president of a highly regarded NYC political club.
For the past decade, Perry has been Senior Editor of the Beverage
Media Group, a network of trade magazines read by 140,000
licensed retailers. He also writes a weekly column for the group’s
B-to-B Internet site.
He lives with his wife Carol Ann Rinzler in the Center of the Known
Universe — Midtown Manhattan — occasionally visiting his home
town of Brooklyn, where his son Russell lives with wife Lisa
Di Gennaro. In the winter, he and Carol often become “snow birds”
to descend on the rest of their family, Ira, Jacky, and grandsons
Ari and Eli, who live in Sarasota, Florida.
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page v01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viDedication
For Lloyd, whose light is gone but whose spirit is always with us.
Acknowledgments
It’s impossible to say how much I owe to Carol Ann Rinzler, my wife,confidant, love of my life, and a damned good editor as well as a
prolific and terrific author. I’ll settle for saying just this: I couldn’t
have done it without you!
For my children, Ira and Jackie, Russell and Lisa, and my grand-
children Ari and Eli — my cheering section — most appreciation
and love.
On a professional level, my blessings are extended to the many
friends and mentors in the spirits business with whom I’ve worked
over the years. They are the most generous and forthcoming
people in the world, and I love them all.
In particular, I want to thank Bill Slone, whose support made this
book possible. Special acknowledgment goes to my oldest and
wisest friends in the business, Gerry Slone, Ron Kapon, and Herbert
Silverman, as well as the two best mixologists in the world, Dale
De Grof and Ray Foley.
Particular thanks to Lisa Hawkins of DISCUS and Chris Morris of
Brown-Forman, who helped make sure the chapter on distillation
was accurate. In all cases, any errors are mine, not those who
helped me.
And of course where would this book have been without the gentle
editorial ministrations of Wiley’s Michael Lewis, Tim Gallan, Sarah
Faulkner, and my guardian angel agent Phyllis Westberg.
It was a long time coming, but I hope all who contributed to it enjoy
reading this book as much as I enjoyed writing it.
01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viiPublisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online
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01_117699 ffirs.qxp 10207 12:41 PM Page viiiContents at a Glance
Introduction.......................................................1
Part I: Entering the Spirits World ........................7
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits ..................................................9
Chapter 2: How Distilled Spirits Are Created........................................23
Chapter 3: Enjoying Spirits......................................................................43
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World...........59
Chapter 4: Sipping the Irish Whiskeys...................................................61
Chapter 5: Saluting the Scots..................................................................79
Chapter 6: American Cousins: Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey .....97
Chapter 7: More Whiskeys from America
and Other Parts of the World .........................................................115
Chapter 8: Channeling the Canadians..................................................131
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits...............................147
Chapter 9: Getting the Goods on Gin...................................................149
Chapter 10: Vodka: Toasting the Russians ..........................................169
Chapter 11: Tequila: Unearthing the Aztecs .......................................191
Chapter 12: Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum .........................................209
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials...231
Chapter 13: Cultivating Brandy ............................................................233
Chapter 14: Collecting Cordials, Lining Up Liqueurs.........................255
Part V: The Part of Tens..................................275
Chapter 15: Ten (or so) Classic Spirits Cocktails...............................277
Chapter 16: Ten Spirited Dishes ...........................................................291
Chapter 17: Ten Nutrition Profiles of Alcohol Beverages..................303
Chapter 18: Ten (or so) Health Benefits of Moderate Drinking........307
Index.............................................................317
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page ix02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page x
Introduction .......................................................1
Conventions Used in This Book ................................................2
What You’re Not to Read............................................................2
Foolish Assumptions ..................................................................3
How This Book Is Organized......................................................3
Part I: Entering the Spirits World....................................4
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World......................4
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits.............................................4
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials................4
Part V: The Part of Tens...................................................5
Icons Used in This Book.............................................................5
Where to Go from Here ..............................................................5
Part I: Entering the Spirits World.........................7
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits . . . . 9
A Brief History of Distilled Spirits.............................................9
Eureka! Wine! Beer! .........................................................10
Advancing the art ...........................................................10
Distillation arrives ..........................................................12
The secret gets out.........................................................12
The process goes global ................................................14
Setting Standards for Producing Modern Distilled Spirits...15
The not-so-noble experiment ........................................15
New rules for better times.............................................16
The Types of Spirits..................................................................17
The clear spirits..............................................................17
The dark spirits...............................................................18
A Word about the Words..........................................................19
Chapter 2: How Distilled Spirits Are Created . . 23
The Distillation Process in a Nutshell ....................................23
The Basic Material for Distilling..............................................26
Milling and Mashing..................................................................26
Starting the fermentation process................................27
Bringing on the micros...................................................28
Distilling: The Main Event ........................................................28
The pot still .....................................................................29
The column still ..............................................................33
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiAging Gracefully........................................................................35
The classic oak barrel ....................................................36
Is getting older always better?......................................37
Blending Science with Art........................................................37
Straight spirits.................................................................38
Blended spirits................................................................38
Bottle, Bottle, Who’s Got the Bottle?......................................40
Choosing a model bottle................................................40
The bottling line..............................................................40
Chapter 3: Enjoying Spirits . . . . . . 43
Assembling the Accoutrements ..............................................43
Choosing your spirit.......................................................44
Setting the tasting table.................................................45
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................46
Getting to the Good Part ..........................................................48
Enjoying the view: Color and legs ................................48
The nose knows ..............................................................49
The tasting technique ....................................................50
Describing what you’re tasting .....................................51
Serving Spirits Day to Day .......................................................53
Choosing a liquor store..................................................53
Surfing the Net ................................................................54
Reading a spirits label....................................................54
Protecting your investment...........................................55
Taking temperature into account .................................56
Avoiding glass warfare ...................................................56
Part II: Whiskeys from Around the World............59
Chapter 4: Sipping the Irish Whiskeys . . . . 61
Entering the Emerald Isle.........................................................61
Tracking the origins of Irish whiskey...........................62
Sailing the Irish seas.......................................................63
Beginning well: The early days
of the Irish whiskey trade ..........................................63
Go west, young distiller .................................................64
Losing — and again finding — the luck of the Irish ...65
The Uniqueness of Irish Whiskey ...........................................66
Beginning with barley ....................................................66
Following the flow...........................................................67
Firing the spirit ...............................................................67
The Leading Irish Whiskeys.....................................................68
Midleton...........................................................................69
Bushmills .........................................................................71
Cooley ..............................................................................71
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiiTasting Irish Whiskey ...............................................................73
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................73
Setting up the tasting .....................................................73
Observing and tasting the whiskeys ............................73
Planning a Blended Meal ..........................................................76
Touring the Source ...................................................................76
Chapter 5: Saluting the Scots . . . . . 79
Which Came First: Whiskey or Whisky?.................................79
From monastery to market............................................80
The “smugglers” take to the high seas ........................81
Making Scotch Whisky .............................................................82
The Scottish difference..................................................82
Distilling the whisky .......................................................84
The Styles of Scotch Whisky ...................................................85
The whisky-making regions of Scotland: Where the
single malts come from and the blends are born ...86
Blended Scotch whiskies ...............................................89
Tasting Scotch Whisky .............................................................91
Creating the tasting sheet..............................................92
Choosing your samples..................................................92
Appreciating the appearance........................................93
Inhaling the aromas........................................................93
Tasting the flavors ..........................................................94
Planning a Scotch-Friendly Meal .............................................95
Traveling through Distillery Land...........................................96
Chapter 6: American Cousins: Bourbon
and Tennessee Whiskey . . . . . . 97
Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of . . Whiskey? .......................98
Rumbling to rebellion.....................................................99
Over the mountains......................................................100
Bourbon beginnings .....................................................100
The great schism: Bourbon gets its name,and Tennessee splits ................................................101
Making Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey ...........................104
Selecting the grain and making the mash..................104
Fermenting and producing distillate..........................105
Distilling the whiskey ...................................................106
Changing the color and building the flavor:
Aging...........................................................................106
Filtering..........................................................................107
The Types of Bourbon............................................................107
Tasting Bourbons and Tennessee Whiskeys .......................108
Gentlemen, choose your whiskeys.............................108
What your senses sense when you taste
Bourbon or Tennessee whiskey..............................110
Pairing Foods with Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey.......111
Touring the Bourbon and Tennessee Whiskey Distilleries ...112
xiii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xiiiChapter 7: More Whiskeys from America
and Other Parts of the World . . . . 115
The Character of American Blended Whiskey ....................116
The birth of the blends ................................................116
A man with a plan.........................................................117
Building a Blended Whiskey..................................................119
Producing a unique American flavor..........................119
Choosing whiskeys for the blend ...............................120
Tasting American Blended Whiskeys ...................................121
Choosing the whiskeys ................................................121
What you see, taste, and smell when sampling
American blended whiskey .....................................123
Planning an American Blended Meal....................................124
Traveling the American Whiskey Trail .................................125
Off the Beaten Whiskey Trails...............................................126
Japan ..............................................................................126
India................................................................................127
New Zealand..................................................................128
Wales ..............................................................................129
Chapter 8: Channeling the Canadians. . . . 131
Starting at the Top (of the World) ........................................131
Molson’s multitudinous accomplishments ...............131
Entering the modern era with a bang ........................132
Moving into the modern markets ...............................135
What Makes a Whisky Canadian? .........................................136
How Canadian Whisky Is Made .............................................137
Tasting the Best of Canada ....................................................139
Selecting the whiskies for your tasting......................140
Savoring the flavor of Canadian whisky ....................143
Pairing Foods with Canadian Whisky...................................144
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits................................147
Chapter 9: Getting the Goods on Gin . . . . 149
The Origins of Gin...................................................................149
Hello, Holland; welcome, jenevre ...............................150
Holland’s balm for British soldiers.............................150
The Brits Take Charge ............................................................151
Protecting the home teams .........................................151
Spreading the gin gospel..............................................152
Riding out the rougher years ......................................153
Making Modern Gin ................................................................154
Protecting the secret ....................................................154
Creating the flavor ........................................................155
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xiv
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xivTouring the World of Gin........................................................156
British gins.....................................................................156
American gins................................................................159
Holland gins...................................................................161
Gins from other countries ...........................................161
Tasting the World’s Gin ..........................................................163
What to look for when tasting gin ..............................164
What to sniff and sip ....................................................165
Serving Gin...............................................................................167
Chapter 10: Vodka: Toasting the Russians . . . 169
What Is Vodka, Anyway? ........................................................169
The Birth of a “Breathless” Spirit .........................................170
The monks move north................................................170
The Russians stake a claim .........................................171
Huzzah for Ivan IV, the not-so-terrible czar...............171
Regulations, regulations, and more............................172
Vodka Takes a Long Voyage...................................................172
“Why would people pay money for this stuff?” ........173
With a kick like a Moscow mule..................................174
Yesterday, the Cold War; today, the world ................175
Distilling Vodka........................................................................176
First comes the mash...................................................177
Next comes fermentation ............................................177
Don’t forget the water ..................................................177
Into the still ...................................................................178
And then into the bottle ..............................................178
The Second Vodka Revolution: The Flavor Factor .............179
Tasting Vodkas ........................................................................181
Creating the tasting sheet............................................181
Classifying vodkas ........................................................182
Tasting vodka neat .......................................................186
Sampling vodkas: What to see, sniff, and taste.........186
Serving vodka after the tasting...................................187
The Foods That Match the Drinks ........................................188
Chapter 11: Tequila: Unearthing the Aztecs. . 191
The First North American Spirit ...........................................192
Ancient history .............................................................192
Tequila’s middle ages...................................................194
Tequila’s trek north ......................................................196
Defining Tequila: New Standards for
a New Global Spirit .............................................................196
How Tequila Is Made ..............................................................198
Choosing the base material.........................................198
Pressing the agave........................................................199
Preparing the mash ......................................................200
Fermenting the wort.....................................................201
xv
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xvDistilling not once but twice .......................................201
Aging the spirit..............................................................201
Blending and bottling...................................................202
The Different Brands of Tequila ............................................203
Tasting Tequila and Mezcal ...................................................205
Making a tasting sheet .................................................205
Choosing the Tequilas to taste ...................................206
Tasting the Tequilas .....................................................206
Pairing Food with Tequila ......................................................207
Chapter 12: Yo Ho Ho and a Bottle of Rum . . . 209
The History of Rum ................................................................209
From arak to rum..........................................................210
Hooray for Christopher Columbus.............................210
Rum rises .......................................................................211
Sugar into rum: A trade bonus....................................211
How Rum Is Produced............................................................212
The base.........................................................................213
Fermentation.................................................................214
Distillation .....................................................................214
Aging...............................................................................215
Blending .........................................................................215
Flavoring a favorite.......................................................216
Where That Rum Is From and Why It Matters.....................217
Hola! Rums from the Caribbean..................................217
Other places, other rums ............................................224
Tasting the World’s Rums ......................................................227
Prepping your tasting sheet ........................................227
Selecting the rums you want to sample.....................227
Gettin’ to tastin’ ............................................................228
Trying the rum with mixers.........................................229
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner” Specials ...231
Chapter 13: Cultivating Brandy. . . . . 233
The “Champagne” of Distilled Spirits...................................234
Where Do Brandies Come From? ..........................................234
France.............................................................................235
Spain...............................................................................239
Italy.................................................................................239
United States .................................................................240
Other places, other brandies ......................................241
Brandy by Type.......................................................................244
Wine brandies ...............................................................244
Fruit brandies................................................................244
Pomace brandies ..........................................................244
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xvi
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviDistilling Brandies...................................................................245
Choosing a base............................................................245
Bringing out the spirit ..................................................245
Aging...............................................................................246
Blending .........................................................................247
Tasting Brandy ........................................................................248
Tasting by type..............................................................248
Tasting by country .......................................................249
Tasting by price ............................................................250
What you taste (and smell) when
you sniff and sip........................................................250
Serving Brandy: Neat or Mixed? Warm or Cool?.................251
Pairing Brandy and Food .......................................................252
Flambé — with care......................................................252
Chapter 14: Collecting Cordials,Lining Up Liqueurs . . . . . . 255
The Birth of the Liqueur ........................................................256
The first “medicines”....................................................257
Cordial? Liqueur? A tale of two words .......................258
Cordially Yours: The Making .................................................258
Choosing the base spirit ..............................................259
Marking the differences ...............................................259
Adding the flavor ..........................................................260
The final touches ..........................................................261
The two types of cordials ............................................262
Cordials by the Ingredients ...................................................263
Fruit flavors ...................................................................264
Seeds and nuts ..............................................................266
Branded, spirit-based...................................................268
Cream liqueurs..............................................................269
Bitters.............................................................................270
Two classic liqueurs.....................................................271
A Cordial Tasting.....................................................................271
Pairing Foods with Cordials and Liqueurs...........................273
Part V: The Part of Tens...................................275
Chapter 15: Ten (or so) Classic Spirits Cocktails . . 277
Oops! Tomato Juice on My Blouse: The Bloody Mary .......277
Alexander! Another Brandy! ..................................................279
War Is Hell, so Pass the Rum — in a Daiquiri,if You Please.........................................................................280
A Shipboard Romance: The Gimlet.......................................281
Uptown, Downtown: The Manhattan....................................282
If You Knew Margie Like I Know Margie: The Margarita.....283
The World’s Most Famous Cocktail: The Martini................284
xvii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviiA Cuban Cup of Cheer: The Mojito .......................................285
The Highland Fling: Rob Roy .................................................286
Simple Perfection: The Whiskey Sour ..................................287
Horses, Grass, and Mint: The Mint Julep.............................288
Chapter 16: Ten Spirited Dishes . . . . 291
Chilled Melon Pepper Soup with Glazed Shrimp................292
Game Paté Terrine ..................................................................293
Marinated Salmon...................................................................295
Penne à la Vodka .....................................................................296
Chicken Fajitas ........................................................................297
Filet Mignon with Whiskey Sauce .........................................298
Green Beans with Toasted Pine Nuts ...................................299
Tennessee Whiskey Candied Apples ....................................300
AppleJack Pound Cake ...........................................................301
Nut Ball Cookies......................................................................302
Chapter 17: Ten Nutrition Profiles
of Alcohol Beverages . . . . . . 303
Rum...........................................................................................304
Gin.............................................................................................304
Vodka ........................................................................................304
Whiskey....................................................................................304
Coffee Liqueur .........................................................................305
Coffee with Cream Liqueur ....................................................305
Whiskey Sour (Cocktail, Made from a Powdered Mix).......305
Tequila Sunrise (Cocktail, Canned) ......................................306
Pi?a Colada (Cocktail, Canned) ............................................306
Daiquiri (Cocktail, Canned) ...................................................306
Chapter 18: Ten (or so) Health Benefits
of Moderate Drinking . . . . . . 307
Heartening News.....................................................................308
Lowering Bad Cholesterol, Raising Good Cholesterol .......309
Busting Blood Clots ................................................................310
Lowering the Pressure ...........................................................310
Staving Off Stroke....................................................................312
Deterring Diabetes..................................................................312
Protecting Intelligence ...........................................................313
Preserving the Brain...............................................................314
Boosting Bones .......................................................................314
Enhancing Appetite ................................................................315
Controlling Weight ..................................................................315
Countering the Common Cold...............................................316
Index .............................................................317
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
xviii
02_117699 ftoc.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page xviiiIntroduction
For thousands of years man and womankind celebrated major
events — religious and secular — by having a taste or even
two of a fermented beverage that contained alcohol. Things got
even tastier around 800 CE — the height of development of the
Moorish culture. That’s when a brilliant alchemist in the perpetual
search for a way to turn lead into gold attempted to urge the
release of the “essence” of various fruits and grains. The result was
not only better than anything ever enjoyed before, but it also could
be repeated over and over again.
That brilliant alchemist had found distillation. The art of making
the most noble of beverages was created by nature and perfected
by men and women. This book is dedicated to giving you a full
explanation of distillation from the simplest and most popular
spirit (vodka) to the most complicated (whiskey and brandy).
No, Whiskey Spirits For Dummies definitely won’t tell you how to
set up your very own still in the basement (or bathtub) so that you
can whip up a batch of your very own whiskey, gin, vodka, Tequila,rum, cordial, or Cognac.
Instead, this book aims to increase your appreciation of the quali-
ties in fine distilled spirits, enabling you to make wise choices from
the myriad products on the shelves in your local liquor store or in
the literally hundreds of cocktails available for serving or drinking
on social occasions. Drinking alcohol beverages is indeed a social
thing to do. It’s also part of religious services, and its use as a psy-
chic benefit is unquestioned. There are other sides to these noble
beverages as well.
This book also presents some ways in which a measured drink or
two a day can create a more healthful way to live. I also talk about
how to avoid any of the unpleasant results that can come from
drinking too much.
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 1For those readers who know absolutely nothing about distilled
spirits other than that these beverages enhance a social setting
and dining experience, this book is a good place to start to pick up
the basics.
More experienced connoisseurs will find this a refresher course
that can confirm their own good taste, introduce them to a few new
types and brands of distilled spirits, and provide the kind of odds
and ends — for example, why whiskey is spelled whiskey in Ireland
and whisky in Scotland — that enliven cocktail conversation. And,yes, I give you several classic cocktail recipes in here, too.
Conventions Used in This Book
To make the text consistent and easier to read, Whiskey Spirits
For Dummies follows the usual Dummies style. For example:
All Web addresses are printed in monofont.
When this book was printed, some Web addresses may have
needed to break across two lines of text. If that happened, rest
assured that I didn’t put in any extra characters (such as
hyphens) to indicate the break. So, when using one of these
Web addresses, just type in exactly what you see in this book,pretending that the line break doesn’t exist.
New terms appear in italic type and are followed by an easy-
to-understand definition.
Bold type is used to highlight the action parts of numbered
steps.
What You’re Not to Read
Imagine: An author telling you that you don’t have to read every
word that appears in his book. The truth is that some small parts
of this book are fun or provide information that you may not find
anywhere else, but they aren’t absolutely essential to your under-
standing of the basic facts about distilled spirits. For example:
The text in sidebars: These shaded boxes are exactly that —
sidebars to the main event — a little anecdote here, a special
factoid there. Fascinating, but not essential.
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
2
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 2 The text next to a Technical Stuff icon: Readers who want to
know every single fact about how things work will find these
paragraphs a delight. Readers who can do without the techni-
cal details can surf on by.
The text on the copyright page: Really. This page is for pub-
lishers and libraries. If my editor put the dedication there to
save space, I think you should read about the people who
helped make this book possible, but the publisher’s address?
The number of editions? The Library of Congress identifica-
tion number? Nah.
Foolish Assumptions
If an author clicks the computer, hits typewriter keys, or pushes a
quill pen across the page, what’s in front of him or her is an image
of the person for whom the book is being written. These are some
of the assumptions I made about you:
You know the names of the different types of distilled spirits,but you may not be totally familiar with the characteristics
that differentiate a whiskey from a Tequila (you may even
know why Tequila is spelled with a capital letter and whiskey
is not).
You’ve read conflicting reports about the risks and benefits of
spirits (and other kinds of alcohol beverages), and you want
to pin down the real facts.
You want the basic information about these products and how
they’re made, but you have no intention of opening your own
distillery. That’s good, because a few paragraphs back you were
told that this book isn’t designed to tell you how to do that.
Most important, you enjoy the flavor, aroma, and panache of
distilled spirits — but only and always in moderation.
How This Book Is Organized
The following is a brief summary of each part of Whiskey Spirits
For Dummies. You can use this as a fast guide to check out the stuff
you want to go to first, because the best thing about a For Dummies
book is that no one expects you to start at Chapter 1 and work your
way straight through to the end. Each chapter here is a whole little
book of its own, which means that you can start anywhere and still
come out with a wealth of new information about distilled spirits.
Introduction 3
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 3Part I: Entering the Spirits World
Chapter 1 is (what else?) a general introduction to the universe of
distilled spirits. Chapter 2 is more technical: A detailed description
of the distillation process in all its traditional glory. Chapter 3 tells
you how to serve, evaluate, and enjoy the products produced in
Chapter 2.
Part II: Whiskeys from
Around the World
Chapter 4 is all about how the Irish introduced the first whiskeys.
Chapter 5 explains how the Scots adopted the Irish spirits — and
changed the spelling to “whisky,” thus confusing generation after
generation of whiskey (or is it whisky?) drinkers.
Chapter 6 salutes two quintessential Americans — Bourbon and
Tennessee whiskey. Chapter 7 describes the other great American
innovation, American blended whiskey, and tells you all about
upstarts from India, Japan, and New Zealand. Chapter 8 goes north
to talk about a Canadian contribution to New World whisky choices.
Part III: Surfing the White Waters:
A Guide to “Clear” Spirits
Chapter 9 focuses on gin, from its birth in the Netherlands, toward
its perfection in London, through its Prohibition adolescence, to its
present presence. Chapter 10 is about vodka, the clear Russian
spirit now often enjoyed in totally unexpected flavors. Chapter 11
is all about Tequila, the Aztec contribution to your drinking pleas-
ure. Chapter 12 focuses on rum, the spirit made from sugar cane
first carried to the Western hemisphere by Christopher Columbus.
Yes, that Christopher Columbus.
Part IV: Enjoying the “After Dinner”
Specials
The subject of Chapter 13 is Winston Churchill’s favorite spirit,brandy. Chapter 14 rewards the sweet tooth with info about the
sweet stuff: cordials and liqueurs.
Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
4
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 4Part V: The Part of Tens
This is the part of the book regular For Dummies readers never
skip. Chapter 15 pours recipes for ten classic cocktails (with an
extra from the bartender). Chapter 16 dishes out menu choices —
entrees, main dishes, veggies, and desserts — whose ingredients
include at least one type of spirit. Chapter 17 tells what nutrients
are in one serving of each type of distilled spirits. Chapter 18
concludes with the actual health benefits of moderate spirits
consumption.
Icons Used in This Book
This icon points out general good ideas, such as serving sugges-
tions, buying advice, and so forth.
I use this icon to highlight important concepts that you shouldn’t
forget.
This icon flags nonessential information that may be too technical
or detailed for some readers. You can skip it if you want.
Where to Go from Here
Now the question is where to begin reading. The real answer is any-
where your curiosity takes you in the . However,one good starting point is Chapter 2, the one that explains how dis-
tilled spirits are made. A second good starting point is Chapter 3,the one that shows you how to enjoy distilled products. Both chap-
ters have information that applies to all types of spirits.
Wherever you start, hopefully it will be a trip you’ll remember for a
long time. Good traveling.
Introduction 5
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 5Whiskey Spirits For Dummies
6
03_117699 intro.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 6Part I
Entering the
Spirits World
04_117699 pt01.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 7In this part . . .
Just like that ?rst sip of your favorite spirit, this part
is pure pleasure. Here I trace the history of distilled
spirits, right from the beginning in the 11th century. I also
explain the distillation process, and I offer tips on how to
serve and enjoy distilled spirits. I recommend reading the
chapters in this part if you’re new to the spirits world; this
information is bound to whet your appetite for the various
alcohol beverages you can read about in the rest of the
book. Pour yourself a glass of whiskey, settle into your
most comfortable chair, and start reading.
04_117699 pt01.qxp 10207 12:42 PM Page 8Chapter 1
Discovering Distilled Spirits
In This Chapter
How distilled spirits were invented
How distilled spirits became popular
The foods from which spirits are made
The varieties of distilled spirits
This chapter is called “Discovering Distilled Spirits,” but
“Distilled Spirits 101” would also do nicely because this is a
down-to-earth basic guide to the multicultural history of the won-
derful beverages human beings produce via distillation.
Naturally, the chapter includes some spirits history, starting with a
graceful bow to other types of alcohol beverages and how they
differ from the distilled varieties. The different types of spirits are
listed here, as are the foods from which they’re made. And just for
kicks, I give you a quiz about famous spirits (okay, famous ghosts)
in classic movies.
A Brief History of Distilled Spirits
The road to distilled spirits begins with those other beverages,wine and beer.
The story starts one day back in the dim, distant past at a point
that most anthropologists peg between 5000 and 6000 BCE. A
goatherd in the Tigris-Euphrates valley (now Iraq), where human
beings created their first agricultural communities, noticed that his
flock was friskier than usual.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 9Part I: Entering the Spirits World
10
Looking closely, he saw the goats feasting on rotting grapes fallen
from a nearby vine. Being a curious goatherd, he tasted a few
grapes himself. Then he tried a few more, and maybe another
handful after that, and soon goats and goatherd ambled happily
back to their village to share their discovery with others.
Of course, you know what that anonymous goatherd didn’t: Those
“rotten” grapes had fermented.
In other words, naturally occurring microorganisms in the air had
landed on the grapes and started feeding on the fruit, digesting the
grape sugars, and turning them into gas (carbon dioxide) and
liquid ethanolethyl alcohol, which is the same alcohol used in all
modern alcohol beverages.
Eureka! Wine! Beer!
Very quickly, the goatherd’s friends, neighbors, and acquaintances
far and near grasped the idea that squeezing rotten, sorry,fermented, fruit released a pleasantly intoxicating beverage called
wine (from the Greek vinos, the Latin vinum, the Old English win,and the Germanic winam).
And then they discovered that fermenting grains released an
equally pleasant intoxicating beverage called beer (from the Latin
bibere [to drink], the German bier, and the Old English beor,pronounced beer).
After that, a jolly good time was had pretty much everywhere fruits
and grains were grown. And it was a profitable time, as well: The
oldest known Sumerian tablet is a receipt for a shipment of beer
from Mesopotamia to some lucky merchant in Northern Greece.
This tablet is a hunk of clay that made it possible for modern
scholars to translate the language of Sumer, the nation of Middle
Eastern city-states that was one of the world’s earliest civilizations.
Advancing the art
At first, folks were content with wine and beer. But being human
and naturally inquisitive, they began to experiment with ways to
standardize the fermentation process because they wanted to
manage the production and improve the quality of alcohol
beverages.
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 10The first step was to take control of fermentation by adding spe-
cific microorganisms (yeasts) to the fruit and grains rather than
simply allowing miscellaneous little buggers to waft in and ferment
the fruit by accident.
The second step was to distill alcohol from the liquid released by
the fermented food.
Unlike the discovery of fermentation, which seems to have been a
happy coincidence, learning how to distill alcohol was the result of
a deliberate series of experiments conducted by an Arab scholar
named Abu Musa Jabir ibn Hayyam (?–803 CE). Most modern scien-
tists generally accept Jabir, known in the West as Geber, as the
Father of Modern Chemistry.
Sometime during the eighth century CE — these dates are never
quite as clear as one might like them to be — Geber was puttering
around with his al-ambiq, a round pot with a tall spout rising from
the top, sort of like an oversized tea kettle. When liquid was heated
in the pot, the vapors rose through the spout to be cooled, con-
densed, and collected as a liquid in a vessel conveniently posi-
tioned under the spout.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 11
Not all alcohol is “alcohol”
Ethanol (ethyl alcohol) is the only alcohol used in food and beverages, but it isn’t
the only alcohol used in consumer products.
Other alcohols that may be sitting on the shelf in your bathroom or workshop are:
Methyl alcohol (methanol):Methanol is a poisonous alcohol made from wood.
It’s used as a chemical solvent (a liquid that dissolves other chemicals). During
Prohibition, when the sale of beverage alcohol was illegal, some unscrupulous
illegal producers would substitute methanol for ethanol, thus leading to many
truly unpleasant results, such as blindness and even death, among people who
drank it.
Isopropyl alcohol (isoproanol, “rubbing alcohol”): Isopropyl alcohol is a poi-
sonous alcohol made from propylene, a petroleum derivative. It’s denatured,which means that it includes a substance that makes it taste and smell bad so
you won’t drink it by mistake.
Denatured alcohol: When ethanol is used in cosmetics, such as hair tonic, it,too, is treated to make it smell and taste bad. Treated ethanol is called dena-
tured alcohol. Some denaturants (the chemicals used to denature the alcohol)
are poisonous, so some denatured alcohol is also poisonous when taken inter-
nally. In other words, it’s definitely not a good idea to drink your hair tonic.
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12
The al-ambiq was standard equipment for alchemists, the medieval
practitioners who spent their lives trying to turn base metal into
gold and, as a sideline, looking for the magical “elixir of life” that
would make men immortal.
But Geber, who may have been a wine aficionado, took a different
tack. He wondered what would happen if he poured wine into the
al-ambiq and boiled it.
In other words — “Eureka!” will do nicely — the man was about to
invent distillation.
Distillation arrives
It’s a physical fact that alcohol boils at a lower temperature than
water, so when Geber poured his wine into his al-ambiq and set the
pot over a fire, the alcohol in the fermented grape juice or the fer-
mented grain and water mixture used to make beer vaporized
before the rest of the liquid in the pot.
The alcohol vapors rose through the spout on the al-ambiq, were
collected and condensed, and, just like that, Geber produced the
world’s first distilled spirit. And it needed a new name.
The solution was simple: While some alchemists were playing
around with longevity tonics, early cosmeticians used their
al-ambiqs to boil up powdered antimony in water, producing a
dark liquid called kohl or al-kohl.
Al-kohl became alcohol. The al-ambiq became the alembic still, also
known as the pot still, which is described in detail in Chapter 2.
And that’s how your favorite distilled spirit drink was born.
The secret gets out
Geber died in 803 CE, but his distillation process lived on among
his Arab compatriots who used the distillate they produced not as
a beverage but as a medicine.
The Arabs kept distillation to themselves for several centuries,taking their secrets with them to the Iberian Peninsula when they
conquered Spain. When Spain expelled its non-Christian citizens in
1492 and Portugal followed suit in 1597, the secrets of how to make
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 12grain and fruits into a potent medicine remained behind to be
taken in hand by those doctors of the Middle Ages — monastery
monks. Like the Arabs, the monks prescribed the distillates, includ-
ing some that they originated — such as Benedictine and
Chartreuse liqueurs — for medicinal purposes.
The missionarymedicine men met with enough successes to con-
vince the European pagans that these liquids carried the blessings
of God to assure a long, healthy life. Around the year 1300, Arnald
of Villanova, a professor of medicine at Montpellier (France), one
of the earliest European medical schools, compiled the first (hand)
written instructions for distilling alcohol from wine.
Arnald christened distilled alcohol aqua vitae (Latin for “water of
life”), which translated to eau de vie in French, uisege beatha
among the Celts, akavit in Scandinavia, and vodkawodka (“dear
little water”) in Russia and Poland. By any name, the distillate was
reputed, in Villanova’s words, to “prolong life, clear away ill-
humors, revive the heart, and maintain youth.” Others claimed it
also alleviated diseases of the brain, nerves, and joints; calmed
toothaches; cured blindness, speech defects, and paralysis; and
warded off the Black Death.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 13
Moderation is the message
In 1478, 48 years after Gutenberg invented the printing press, an Austrian physician
named Michael Puff von Schrick published the very first book on distillation. Puff’s
piece immediately hit the 15th-century bestseller list, going through 14 editions in 20
years.
Most readers probably bought the book to use as a medical reference, but a sig-
nificant number likely picked it up in order to learn how to make distilled spirits with
local fruits and other produce for pleasure.
The new distilled spirits were very popular, so much so that in 1496, a doctor in
Nuremberg, Germany, whose name is unfortunately lost to history, offered a word
to the wise imbiber: “In view of the fact that everyone at present has gotten into the
habit of drinking aqua vitae, it is necessary to remember the quantity one can permit
oneself to drink, and learn to drink it according to one’s capacity, if one wishes to
behave as a gentleman.”
Sounds as good today as it did then.
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14
Not surprisingly, nobody at all complained about having to take
Arnald’s medicine instead of the crushed leaves, boiled grains, and
pressed herbs it came from.
The process goes global
Serendipitously, the spread of distillation occurred just as
Europeans began to seriously explore and colonize the world,establishing regular trade routes between Europe and the East and
Europe and the New World.
The Spanish and the Portuguese were leaders in the exploration
game, bringing back new products and taking their alcohol bever-
ages with them. Spirits, in particular, were a win-win trade-off
because they were
Virtually unknown in the lands the explorers explored
Easy to produce
A really smart way to turn an excess crop, such as grain, into
a cash product rather than leaving it to rot in the field
A stable beverage that resisted spoilage and turned tastier as
it aged in wooden barrels
Best of all, distilled spirits were a totally natural product that —
after distillation became common knowledge — could be produced
from virtually any local plant anywhere in the world. As a result, by
the 19th century, distilled spirits of one sort or another were avail-
able pretty much anywhere a traveler traveled.
Table 1-1 is a list of the plant foods that can be fermented to pro-
vide the base for making distilled spirits.
Table 1-1 Foods Used in Distillation
This Food . . . . Makes This Distilled Spirit
Grains
Oats Scotch whisky
Rice Sake (distilled rice wine), Japanese whiskey
Rye Whiskey
Wheat Whiskey, vodka
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 14This Food . . . . Makes This Distilled Spirit
Fruits and Vegetables
Agave fruit (pi?a) Tequila
Apples Apple jack, brandy
Grapes Brandy, eau de vie, grappa
Other fruits Brandy, cordials, liqueurs
Potatoes Vodka
Sweeteners
Sugar cane, molasses Rum, aguardiente, cacha?a
Honey Cordials, liqueurs
Botanicals (Herbs and Seeds) Gin, cordials, liqueurs
Setting Standards for Producing
Modern Distilled Spirits
Distilled spirits came to the United States just as they had every-
where else — with the explorers and the immigrants. The Irish
brought their own whiskey and so did the Scots. The Brits and
Dutch brought gin, the French brandy, and Slavic people vodka.
The only difference was that while religious objections led to
forbidding the use of any alcohol beverages (including spirits) in
some countries, the United States stands alone in having once
prohibited drinking for political reasons. (State legislatures under
pressure from their constituents passed bans of varying severity
on beverage alcohol production and distribution. So many states
had bans, in fact, that ultimately the federal government had to
follow suit or face interstate warfare.)
The not-so-noble experiment
In 1917, following years of agitation by anti-alcohol activists and
the passage of prohibition laws in a number of states, the United
States Congress passed the 18th Amendment to the Constitution
prohibiting distribution or sale of alcohol beverages nationally.
One exception: Medical purposes with a prescription only.
Chapter 1: Discovering Distilled Spirits 15
05_117699 ch01.qxp 10207 12:43 PM Page 15Part I: Entering the Spirits World
16
Two years later, after ratification by the requisite three-fourths of
the states, Prohibition became the law of the land. Congress then
passed the Volstead Act (the National Prohibition Enforcement
Act) defining an alcohol beverage as any liquid containing more
than 0.5 percent alcohol.
The result was an increase in crime as Americans in general said,“No way,” to what President Herbert Hoover called “the Noble
Experiment.” Americans did their drinking at home or in speakeasies
(nightclubs hidden behind locked doors, opened only to a secret
password such as “Joe sent me”). Alcoh ......
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